SpudFiles

Here's my edc :confused3:

Inonickname,
I think the tricky part jake is referring to is probably keeping the spine both a uniform thickness and also preventing it from curving when you're hammering the taper into the blade edge. Properly done the wedge shape of the blade should be hammered out rather than ground, since it reforms the metal's grain in a favorable way.
It is kinda tricky, I know 'cause I have actually done it at one point, though now I just stick with the grinder. Belt sanders also have a bit of a learning curve here, oddly enough. I probably went through $50 worth of belts before I considered my sanding skills to be even worth a crap . Try some practice blades from crap steel, or just make random shapes until it starts behaving the way you want it to. Oh, and it can be done with a $30 harbor freight anvil. Get a big log for a stand like Jake has, it's so much more comfortable doing stuff while you're standing.

Oh, and methinks JSR should get himself a key to the workplace and a nice out-of-the-way storage room somewhere for some off-the-clock noisemaking.

Fnord wrote:Oh, and methinks JSR should get himself a key to the workplace and a nice out-of-the-way storage room somewhere for some off-the-clock noisemaking.

hehe I do have a key, out of the way storage, but no place to make noise :-/

A little knife I'm working on... I don't know why the bevels look junk in the first photo, they're hand sanded to 2000 grit.

Nice looking one what steel? hoiw heat treated? how sharp? i need raw data

jakethebeast wrote:Nice looking one what steel? hoiw heat treated? how sharp? i need raw data

Leaf spring, authentic modern Nepal style

I haven't sharpened it yet but I'll put a hair popping edge closer to the handle, as intended for fine work and carving, and a less keen edge near the tip for heavy duty work. Handle is sheoak and brass, stand is Australian jarrah

The sharpness doesn't say its good for heavy duty work Its the grinding angle.

New puukko, something different this time.

Blade is 0.8% pure carbonsteel, differential heat treated to 56-57hrc on the tip, and 59-60hrc at the belly of the blade. And as always, the spine is soft

Handle is walnut, burn fitted to the tang (as always), bolsters are around 10mm thick bronze. Handle also has few leather washers, just to keep the walnut from splitting because the moisture, used reindeer and bull hide

Has taken around 5 hours to make to this point, so quite fast work

Still needs few coats of Danish Oil and i'm off to sewing

Looks sexy

That's amazing Jake! 5 hours? That's about as long as it took me to make a crappy tiny little sword out of a nail with a blowtorch and hammer

Those 10mm thick bolsters will come quite hot, and its hard to see the heat colors on bronze, my hands got quite burned ( like i would feel it anymore ) gloves are for whimpys

Jake, any suggestions for a rough sale price on the kukri? I would do it by hours spent but we both know that's a bad way to price knives..

Well, only thingk that is "lowering" the price is the handle, looks little too rectangular for my taste. I would say 100€ from that exact one, or 120€

OK guys, hear me out...

After my katana taking a trip to bend town in an improvised coal forge I've decided to shelf it for a bit and go for something smaller that will fit my gas forge.

I'm designing a rescue/utility/tactical knife (I've signed up for volunteer ambulance) for myself.

Requirements:
-Single edge (Australian law)
-Solid tang/fixed blade (strength)
-Reasonable size for carry (i.e. not a sword)
-I'll probably make it from 1/4" 5160
-Suitable for carry in a sheath (but not for everyday carry)

I don't really want to do serrations, but I understand how useful they are in cutting fabrics and rope. Perhaps a single sharpened edge at the end of the blade (choil). Any alternatives would be welcome..

Any input on style/design?

You probably don't need a fully serrated edge; A few small nicks in a sharp blade will aid in cutting cloth to a high degree.
Some steels develop microscopic serrations naturally when sharpening. Have a look around before buying your stock

I guess around 5-6" blade length would probably be the best trade-off area for a controllable/heavy-duty utility knife. I'm probably not the best person to ask on this though, since I tend to overkill things:)

You might want to go with something slightly thinner than 1/4". Thicker blades dramatically increase the force it takes to cut through voluminous materials such as multi-layered cardboard.