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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:07 pm
by JoergS
The Fimo never cracks under normal conditions, but you should not overheat it. The blow torch would destroy it but good.

The constriction knot is the magic solution. When I learned how to tie it, my designs have gotten 200% better. Never slips. Never fails.

It is easy, go to youtube and find a leftover string to practice.

Jörg

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:42 pm
by c11man
hehe i just made one

do to my lack of strenght i am only able to use 2 bands not 4. and this rubber isnt the strongest stuff either........ but i think its about the same as a cheep commercial one

The Slightshot Channel now has a blog

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:00 am
by JoergS

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:14 am
by spudamine
Damn I think I need to make me one of them :D
Joerg, I noticed in the video, the double bands seem to be attached slightly differently in the slingshot you show at the beginninng, is this just for looks or is this a better technique? I am guessing you tie a knot in the thicker string, poke it up the tube and then use the thinner string to constrict the band behind the knot?
Also what type of string do you use for this?
One last question I've been doing some research and people seem to reckon the thera flat band is better than the tube, even for the equivalent colour, is this due to thickness of the rubber or is there something else going on here? I just think the tube looks cooler 8)

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:48 am
by john bunsenburner
Whole sight is great, makes a mighty fine read.
http://www.melchiormenzel.de/
By the way Jörg what type of welding machine do you have?

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:48 am
by far_cry
wow :!: :!:

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:23 pm
by Technician1002
JoergS wrote:You can use round tube, but it is not easy to drill straight holes through it.

Very simple with square tubes.

Jörg
Drilling straight holes in round tube isn't that hard either. Using vise grips to prevent the tube from rolling, use a center punch to mark your hole start locations. Drill with a drill press keeping the handle of the vise grips down on the drill press table.

Try to learn a new construction technique every week.

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:57 pm
by THUNDERLORD
gOOOd Moooorningggg MisTer Mitchell!!! :lol:
(Dennis the Menace saying)

Looks cool!
Is it in English, German or both?
Looks like a fun way to practice German either way.

For the bottles I would guess lead will work better because steel will be more prone to glancing off the rounded surfaces IMO.

BTW, your slingshots have cool names too! 8)

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:04 pm
by THUNDERLORD
Technician1002 wrote:...Try to learn a new construction technique every week.
I found this technique Here, that this guy uses interesting, since it's so basic...

Not really into them except for knife handles, (mostly i like the kid's shirt in vid :P )
But I am thinking they'd make an interesting slingshot handle!!!
Maybe you could build one ?,
(I don't have the time for it lately). :( 8)

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:06 pm
by spudamine
Drilling straight holes in round tube isn't that hard either. Using vise grips to prevent the tube from rolling, use a center punch to mark your hole start locations. Drill with a drill press keeping the handle of the vise grips down on the drill press table.
Hmm, I think the point Joerg is making is that you don't need a drill press to make this, or a centre punch for that matter :)
Actually drilling a hole through a tube dead on it's central axis is a bit tricky, I have a special little tool you chuck up to align the tube then take it out and put the dril bit in, doesn't work very well with my small drill press though.
I found this technique Here, that this guy uses interesting, since it's so basic...
ha ha Iv'e used this when I had to cut a 3" hole through 3mm of stainless and it was a complete PITA. Initially I tried a bimatel holesaw but it just blunted the teeth in seconds so I had to drill out small holes around the edge and join them up with a carbide hack saw blade then file to death, not much fun :evil:

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:15 pm
by JoergS
spudamine wrote:Damn I think I need to make me one of them :D
Joerg, I noticed in the video, the double bands seem to be attached slightly differently in the slingshot you show at the beginninng, is this just for looks or is this a better technique? I am guessing you tie a knot in the thicker string, poke it up the tube and then use the thinner string to constrict the band behind the knot?
Also what type of string do you use for this?
One last question I've been doing some research and people seem to reckon the thera flat band is better than the tube, even for the equivalent colour, is this due to thickness of the rubber or is there something else going on here? I just think the tube looks cooler 8)
That's right, for the thicker tube, the "kink and tie" attachment does not work well. The "knot in tube" method is better.

Thera Band (flat) is indeed a little faster and easier to draw, but it is much harder to make (you got to cut your stripes with knife and ruler), and it tears way faster.

The "Chinese" method (looped tubes) allows the use of thin rubber tubes that would be weak if you would use only one string. But two of them per side are strong, and the thin rubber is fast.

I use standard natural string, nice and sturdy.

And I have a corbon protective gas welding set. That may be the wrong term, I don't know the proper English name for it.

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:20 pm
by john bunsenburner
Sags auf Deutsch(say it in german).

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:20 pm
by JoergS
It's English, but I can't bring the darn site to recognize that so everything but my own text is German.

Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:31 pm
by JoergS
Ein MAG-Schutzgasschweissgerät mit Corbon-Gas.

Deutsch enough?

Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:33 am
by spudamine
Thanks Joerg,
one more question if you don't mind, a lot of your more 'brutal' slingshots have the band stretched over a longer distance, so the elastic can be stretched further. Is this just equivalent to using stronger bands or is there a furhter advantage, I'm guessing for yourself you have run out of stronger bands to use but I'm sure that won't be a problem for me yet.

Anyway here is a diagram of how I might modify your design to give an extra bit of 'stretch room' for the bands, do you think it would offer a significant advantage over just using a thicker band on the original design?
I'm in the UK so there are no issues with wrist braces, yet. this one would use a brace similar to that seen on the Barnett black widow, which I used to have as a kid.