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Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 9:30 pm
by saladtossser
i can get a lot of my stuff locally at princess auto right now, they got ALMOST everything needed for a go kart.
oh, and i plan on using a solid axle, but the right wheel can either be free spinning or attached solidly, giving me the choice of two and single wheel drive, changing this pretty much takes an allen wrench.
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:29 pm
by jrrdw
Thats not a crappy weld, it's a beginers weld, and it's not bad at all. You see the discoloration of the metal up to a 1/4" away from the weld, thats good penatraytion, and it's not just burnt in eather, you would see black metal if it was, (even after brushing off the slag). Check it for squareness by measureing caticornerd, if it measures the same, it's square, (yes it's that easy). Good job so far, i'm rooten for ya!
P.S.- I'll get back to editing the cart wiki when i get more time, long work days for me this time of year.
Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:03 am
by saladtossser
hey i almost have my rear axle done, after the two wheels are on, i have about 1/2" long stub on each end, i was thinking, should i...
-take the axle to some place and get it threaded
-get the axle have a groove for a snap ring (i dont have the snap ring tool though)
-use a shaft collar
Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:14 pm
by singularity
about the snap ring.. just but the tool its a HUGE pain to do it with like screw drivers and small rods. the tool makes it so much easier.
Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:55 pm
by saladtossser
theo told me to drill through my axle, and bolt a shaft collar onto it. I am probaly gonna do that
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:13 pm
by jrrdw
Have the ends threaded, put nuts on, and then drill a small hole and put a cotter key in it if you have enough room for it.
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:59 pm
by saladtossser
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:17 pm
by WOW!!
Nice! It looks good. You might want to spray a little primer/ or oil on the welds to keep them from rusting, but good job, did you get a seat yet? Here is a Jegs seat, I have one them are really nice.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... ryId=10509
Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:26 pm
by saladtossser
my dad got a leather tractor seat
excuse the wood connecting the two front wheels, we used up all 40' of steel and needs to buy more later
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 12:37 pm
by WOW!!
What size steel you useing?
Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 1:13 pm
by saladtossser
1" square
Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:52 am
by WOW!!
Nice, why did you go with the 2 rear wheels?
101 post!!
Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:06 pm
by saladtossser
because only one of them is actually driven, the other just spins however it likes
Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 3:35 pm
by WOW!!
o0o, kool.
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 1:14 pm
by saladtossser
i went shopping for a steering shaft and hub, i decided on a 1/2" sch40 galvinized steel water pipe, and a flange fitting, because it fits into a 1" square tube very well, i took it home, and descovered its inner diameter MATCHES the outer diameter of a 5/8" keyed axle.
so it got me thinking
my current drive wheel is attached to the axle by a "weld on hub" from princess auto, the same one used to attach the sprocket to the axle, i figured the weld might not hold up, so i devised a back up plan in case of weld failure.
get a 1/2" galvinized steel nipple, a flange, drill holes in the nipple, thread the holes with a 3/16" tap, use 3/16" bolts to engage the key slot on the axle, attach the mipple to the flange, apply loctite where the flange and the nipple joins, and thus you have yourself a easily made wheel hub fitting a 5/8" axle, also the pipe can be a spacer or add strength to the axle by increasing its overall outer diameter to 0.84, more than a 3/4" axle.
just wanted to share
here is dimensions for a 1/2" pipe
note: the inner diameter is 0.622 because the end of the pipe is slightly squeezed during threading, it'm more like a small rim than is easily filed away. trust me, it fits perfectly.