Page 7 of 10
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:00 pm
by Hawkeye
A short drill bit extender makes a good inline hammer. I have found that it's a slide fit in the smaller diameter copper.
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:11 pm
by Gun Freak
Ah I also forgot to mention that I made a striker, it's just a 1/4" bolt with two washers that fit perfect in the pipe and a nylon spacer in between them that has two holes in opposite sides to hold two smaller bolts that are used to cock it. I appreciate the suggestion though. If I have one in my garage I'll check it out.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:31 pm
by Gun Freak
Success!
[youtube][/youtube]
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:48 pm
by warhead052
Awesome. Not a huge pressure drop either, so that's not too bad.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:58 pm
by Gun Freak
Yeah, it was only 10 psi per shot. And it let out a nice amount of air at only 250 psi.
The first test, I shot it and looked at the push button, and it had indentations from the screw

So the next shots I put paper towel in between and it was fine. I could easily make a new button if I needed to.
So I'm pretty happy it works well

I need to make a proper hammer now...

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:28 pm
by warhead052
Can you post a picture of the hammer you have now?
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:44 pm
by Gun Freak
Sure.

It's gonna be replaced by a hex head screw with rubber pad on the head to protect the button.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:04 pm
by evanmcorleytv
I just found some old parts yesterday, and made my own. At only 100 PSI, I would be able to shoot an airsoft BB more that 500 FPS, and what's great is that it can be rearranged to be a semi automatic valve too!!
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:08 pm
by Gun Freak
Cool, but airsoft doesn't take barely anything to go fast. They are so light. When you get smaller and heavier, like .177 pellets, you need higher pressure.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:06 pm
by warhead052
Evan, post a thread on it. With pictures and maybe a video. I would like to see that.
Gun Freak, you may need a bit of mouse pad instead of rubber. What's the damage to the button like?
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:17 pm
by Gun Freak
Small dents from the phillips drive. No big deal. Mouse pad would absorb too much energy, I'm just gonna put some neoprene-like sheet rubber disc on to soften the bolt head (it'll probably be stainless steel). Worst case scenario I have to make a new button, not too hard with the drill press.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:55 pm
by Lockednloaded
Looks good, glad you got the hammer working!
Anyway,
A nice new gauge to replace the current clunker
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 6:25 am
by Gun Freak
Cool, if I convince my friggin parents to let me use paypal I will get one from eBay.
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:35 pm
by wyz2285
If you are happy with it, cool.
But I used a very simular hammer, it didn´t work very well because it`s too light, and from the video, looks like cocking the hammer is hard, a very bad thing if you want to combine the reload mechanism with recocking hammer.
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:43 pm
by Gun Freak
wyz2285 wrote:If you are happy with it, cool.
But I used a very simular hammer, it didn´t work very well because it`s too light, and from the video, looks like cocking the hammer is hard, a very bad thing if you want to combine the reload mechanism with recocking hammer.
Don't worry. This setup was temporary to see if the valve would open with the intended hammer type. That striker is not final, neither is the loading procedure. It was only hard to cock because I was using a ghetto setup and only cocking one side. In the final design, there will be two handles, one on each side, so it will be easier to cock. I'm talking about something like an M4 charging handle (two fingers).
And yeah I was planning on incorporating the cocking into loading if possible... But we'll see.