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1/4" ball valve
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:08 am
by koolaidman
quick question: anyone ever use a 1/4" ball valve for piloting sprinkler valves as apposed to blow guns. I just want a small more realistic looking trigger. So i was gonna tap it then put in one of those 1/4" 90 deg brass fittings then the valve. Its just ive never seen it done so would it still be fast enough and easy enough to open with a finger or too when oiled.
Re: 1/4" ball valve
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:15 am
by Hubb
koolaidman wrote:quick question: anyone ever use a 1/4" ball valve for piloting sprinkler valves as apposed to blow guns. I just want a small more realistic looking trigger. So i was gonna tap it then put in one of those 1/4" 90 deg brass fittings then the valve. Its just ive never seen it done so would it still be fast enough and easy enough to open with a finger or too when oiled.
Yes.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:22 am
by hi
quick question: anyone ever use a 1/4" ball valve for piloting sprinkler valves as apposed to blow guns. I just want a small more realistic looking trigger. So i was gonna tap it then put in one of those 1/4" 90 deg brass fittings then the valve. Its just ive never seen it done so would it still be fast enough and easy enough to open with a finger or too when oiled.
Yes.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:26 am
by koolaidman
okay.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:34 am
by shud_b_rite
I think blowguns look more realistic than a ball valve trigger.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:37 am
by frankrede
I have done it, and it works fine.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 1:46 am
by f.c
i have been considering doing this for a while.
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:40 am
by psycix
People done it, and havent got aquadate-sized ballvalves more flow than the blowgun?
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:57 am
by watto
ballvalves are way less restricted than blowguns
Re: 1/4" ball valve
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 8:08 am
by cdheller
koolaidman wrote:so would it still be fast enough and easy enough to open with a finger or too when oiled.
most metal ball valves have a wog(water ,oil ,gas ) rating stamped on the side so oiling won't hurt them but it doesn't loosen them up as much as heating them.
they are made to take soldering temperatures so a oven at 300 deg F would be pretty safe.
after soldering a ball valve the plastic seats form a lot closer to the actual size and shape of the ball.
so far every threaded and solder type ball joint I've taken or cut apart has used the same material for the seats.
the same brand will interchange
theres a packing nut under the handle you can adjust some,.
if you get it to lose it'll leak and need to be tightened up some.
some of the brands like apolla and watts are set up to take a seperately sold locking sleeve that slips over the handle that might make spring loading the handle a no brainer.
hope this helps