SpudFiles

Well, i was researching and i found that a muzzle brake does far more than just look BadA**. It actually reduces recoil a TON....

i was just wondering if anyone has ever put one of these on their pneumatic. i know that when i dry-fire my pneumatic the recoil is pretty substantial.

right now i'm planning on using the clamshell type of brake that is on the .50bmg's.

i was just wondering if it might be possible to make one that actually does more than look cool. mabey direct the flow backwards so you get a blast of air in the face upon firing?

VH_man wrote:...mabey direct the flow backwards so you get a blast of air in the face upon firing?

And get a piece of tater in the eye

And some small high velocity fragments in my eyes,not likely.

A lot of design goes into making a muzzle brake,much like into a silencer and for it to work properly there need to be some research done into it and a fair amount of trial and error till you actually get a working model. If you can make a muzzle brake that works well and have something to prove it then kudos to you.I'm not trying to be discouraging but they not a simple thing that can be thrown together and expect great results.

i was just wondering if anyone has ever put one of these on their pneumatic. i know that when i dry-fire my pneumatic the recoil is pretty substantial.

You said in the SCTBDC topic that you hadn't got your pneumatics to 200 ft/lbs yet, the recoil shouldn't be too bad. A muzzle break can also be useful for redirecting escaping gases so they don't cause the projectile to tumble upon leaving the barrel.

Well, im thinking about something with an inward cone facing the barrel to aid in "catching" the escaping airflow and direct it out the sides. basically it will be a suppressor without the outer covers. Also, im planning on multiple "cones" to increase efficiency. to add onto this, fins on the outside of the slits will actually direct the air BACKWARD, so that even if it doesnt really reduce recoil i still get an air blast in the face.

this is with a marble gun, btw, so i dont think ill get potoato fragments in the eye.

ill give this a try with some 1/2 inch copper crosses at first. it wont look pretty, but it will give me a good idea if this will work well or not.

a simple muzzle brake can be made by just drilling holes in the barrel near the end and if you want to keep you canno from kicking up then you can drill the holes in the top. Another thing you can do to give you projectile a better exit from the barrel is to chamfer the end of the barrel which allows air to escape around the projectile instead of bumping it off course. As for making the muzzle brake direct air into you face i don't think its a good idea but you could make it reduce the recoil by directing the air backwards like the muzzle brakes on barrett .50 rifles. suppresors also act as muzzle brakes check out the one on the barret m82 on this page http://www.guns.connect.fi/rs/Reflex.html and i found a good design for a .50 muzzle brake here http://www.50bmg.net/Images/convertion% ... 0brake.jpg and some other pretty cool ones came up on google images. and you could also check out some of the sniper rifles listed down the side of this page http://world.guns.ru/sniper/sn63-e.htm for ideas and the cheytac intervention show on that page has an example of holes in the barrel being a muzzle brake.

edit : it should definitly work and it should work well.

Cutting holes into the barrel doesn't quite constitute a muzzle brake as it's not actively fighting the recoil, as opposed to directing the the gasses back which not only cuts down on the recoil forces but tries to propell the launcher forward.

What if the holes were drilled at an angle?

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Cutting holes into the barrel doesn't quite constitute a muzzle brake as it's not actively fighting the recoil, as opposed to directing the the gasses back which not only cuts down on the recoil forces but tries to propell the launcher forward.

but if you drilled holes only in th top of your barrel then the gases would activly be trying to force the muzzle down wouldn't they edit: or you could drill the holes at an angle ontop of the barrel 8)

My opinion and this is just that, is that your trying to reduce something that really doesn't need reducing. And that the work that would go into trying to get it to work would be kinda futile. I don't mean to sound like an asshole but I'm just thinking realistically.

ALIHISGREAT wrote:

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Cutting holes into the barrel doesn't quite constitute a muzzle brake as it's not actively fighting the recoil, as opposed to directing the the gasses back which not only cuts down on the recoil forces but tries to propell the launcher forward.

but if you drilled holes only in th top of your barrel then the gases would activly be trying to force the muzzle down wouldn't they edit: or you could drill the holes at an angle ontop of the barrel 8)

Much like in the Vang Comp System (which is awesome, but expensive).

ALIHISGREAT wrote:

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Cutting holes into the barrel doesn't quite constitute a muzzle brake as it's not actively fighting the recoil, as opposed to directing the the gasses back which not only cuts down on the recoil forces but tries to propell the launcher forward.

but if you drilled holes only in th top of your barrel then the gases would activly be trying to force the muzzle down wouldn't they edit: or you could drill the holes at an angle ontop of the barrel 8)

Actually, i saw a pistol recently, I think it was a Glock, that had two barrel ports on the top, with the aim of reducing the upward motion due to recoil.

i was just wondering if anyone has ever put one of these on their pneumatic. i know that when i dry-fire my pneumatic the recoil is pretty substantial.

I agree with DYI, the recoil won't be too large.

And don't expect any accuracy improvements from a basic muzzle brake. The recoil compensation from the gasses comes after the projectile has already left the barrel.
The only lossless compensation for the accuracy loss from projectile recoil is a well designed cannon, with a centre of gravity as close to the axis of the barrel as possible, with a stock set right behind the barrel.
An under-over is also a good choice for accuracy, because the gas movement in the barrel is opposite to the opposite flow in the chamber, which reduces the recoil during the shot.
Porting the barrel will cut gas recoil after the shot. Directing that flow back will help reduce total recoil.

I may make an advanced muzzle brake (sort of a cross between porting and a muzzle brake) for when I fire the 1/2 pound chunk of steel rod I have around, because I'm expecting a lot of recoil from that, but frankly, anything much less than that is easily handled.
I'll detail how I do that when I get round to actually building it.

Yeah i was going to mention the Glocks but typing on the PSP takes ages. Isn't the brake on the glock meant to make it harder to aim because the flash comes right infront of your face?

You should check out the barrel on my paintball gun, http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/potatof ... 11059.html
it has a muzzle brake on it, but I'm not sure how effective it is, because I've never fired anything too heavy out of it, but it does seem to keep the aluminum rod that I fire out of it from tumbling. The muzzle brake is just a PVC "cross" connector.