Rifling machine
Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:36 pm
Well although it’s not a 100% success, it does indeed work.
It consists of:
A piece of 1 inch PVC pipe as a die (note: die is not the appropriate word I just can’t recall the right term at the moment.)
A short piece of 1 ¼ inch pipe with a bolt in it as a barring/guide block
A piece of wood with a channel cut through it for part of a barrel clamp. (Originally used to keep the strap from biting in to the “good” wood on a pallet of lumber.)
A few short lengths of perforated strapping, used as clamps for the barrel and guide block, didn’t work.
¾ inch oak dowel for a cutter rod.
Part of a screw for a cutter.
Cost: squat, I had all the parts lying around.
Construction time: two days working 2-4 hours in the evening.
Will rifle a barrel up to 25 inches long, with a rate of twist of 1 in 102, theoretically 1 in 102 is the perfect rate of twist for paintballs.
Well after procrastinating for only a year or two the other day I finally decided to stop say I’m going to build a rifling machine and do it.
On deciding that I went out to the barn and grabbed a 2X4 commenced whittling it down to a 1 ½ inch dowel rod, from which I planed to make the die by cutting the reverse of the rifling in to the out side.
After I got the 2X4 whittled down (took over 4 hours) to the dowel it occurred to me that it would be infinitely easer to put the channel in a piece of pipe, a procedure I’d done many times, so I laid out the pattern on a piece of pipe and in les than 30 minutes I had a nice looking die.
Then came the cutter head, my first thought was to bend something up from metal strapping I got as far as trying to figure out how to attach it to the cutting rod, may plan being to use a small screw, the only problem was how to keep the screw from scratching the bore… “Oh, hay, I could just forget the sheet metal thing and use the screw!”.
So what’s the moral of this story? All that’s complex is not useful, all that is useful is simple. Or, keep it simple stupid…
Anyway, the only problem is the clamps won’t hold the barrel or the guide block, but other than that it works.
How it works:
First you clam in the barrel, then you adjust the screw to were it’ll just barely cut and then push the cutter rod in. the cutter rod rotates with the die, which has the blank of the rifling cut in it.
Run the cutter rod though the barrel till it stops cutting, then turn the screw in just a tad.
Continue till the grove reaches the desired depth then unclamp the barrel and rotate it 90* and start the process over.
You do that 4 times and viola you got your self a rifled barrel.
Now one more thing:
Once I get the bugs worked out would any body like to buy a rifled barrel? If I can get enough people interested I’ll make a bigger one, capable of rifling a barrel up to 8 feet long, maybe 9.
Would any of the following interest you?
1.5 inch rifled for slugs 5 inches long
2 inch rifled for 5 inch long slugs
.50 for .50dia round ball
.75 for .75dia round ball
Or is there some other size?
Well thanks for your time here’s some pictures.
It consists of:
A piece of 1 inch PVC pipe as a die (note: die is not the appropriate word I just can’t recall the right term at the moment.)
A short piece of 1 ¼ inch pipe with a bolt in it as a barring/guide block
A piece of wood with a channel cut through it for part of a barrel clamp. (Originally used to keep the strap from biting in to the “good” wood on a pallet of lumber.)
A few short lengths of perforated strapping, used as clamps for the barrel and guide block, didn’t work.
¾ inch oak dowel for a cutter rod.
Part of a screw for a cutter.
Cost: squat, I had all the parts lying around.
Construction time: two days working 2-4 hours in the evening.
Will rifle a barrel up to 25 inches long, with a rate of twist of 1 in 102, theoretically 1 in 102 is the perfect rate of twist for paintballs.
Well after procrastinating for only a year or two the other day I finally decided to stop say I’m going to build a rifling machine and do it.
On deciding that I went out to the barn and grabbed a 2X4 commenced whittling it down to a 1 ½ inch dowel rod, from which I planed to make the die by cutting the reverse of the rifling in to the out side.
After I got the 2X4 whittled down (took over 4 hours) to the dowel it occurred to me that it would be infinitely easer to put the channel in a piece of pipe, a procedure I’d done many times, so I laid out the pattern on a piece of pipe and in les than 30 minutes I had a nice looking die.
Then came the cutter head, my first thought was to bend something up from metal strapping I got as far as trying to figure out how to attach it to the cutting rod, may plan being to use a small screw, the only problem was how to keep the screw from scratching the bore… “Oh, hay, I could just forget the sheet metal thing and use the screw!”.
So what’s the moral of this story? All that’s complex is not useful, all that is useful is simple. Or, keep it simple stupid…
Anyway, the only problem is the clamps won’t hold the barrel or the guide block, but other than that it works.
How it works:
First you clam in the barrel, then you adjust the screw to were it’ll just barely cut and then push the cutter rod in. the cutter rod rotates with the die, which has the blank of the rifling cut in it.
Run the cutter rod though the barrel till it stops cutting, then turn the screw in just a tad.
Continue till the grove reaches the desired depth then unclamp the barrel and rotate it 90* and start the process over.
You do that 4 times and viola you got your self a rifled barrel.
Now one more thing:
Once I get the bugs worked out would any body like to buy a rifled barrel? If I can get enough people interested I’ll make a bigger one, capable of rifling a barrel up to 8 feet long, maybe 9.
Would any of the following interest you?
1.5 inch rifled for slugs 5 inches long
2 inch rifled for 5 inch long slugs
.50 for .50dia round ball
.75 for .75dia round ball
Or is there some other size?
Well thanks for your time here’s some pictures.