SpudFiles

Does anyone know how to modify an elbow or T fitting like in clide's GB semi ?

I read all 7 pages of his post looking for more information on it.
But there's no details on how to shorten up the connections like that.

I would like to know how to "mod an elbow" or T fitting for a 3" or 4" to 3"
pipe to shorten it for an over under design.

Thanks in advance for any advice on that. I will check back later.

Why would you shorten up the connections?
I think it would give a big chance of leaks.

Are you talking about the distance between 2 fittings?

looked to me like he sleaved a larger 90 so that a smaller 90 would fit in tight and glued it in.

Would street elbows help you out? If so, you caould use an already made part and save you some trouble. Look at this one http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... tml#174884

I used them and id you are trying for the over-under look, this will put your barrel and chamber right close to each other which is what I assume you're looking for?

Thanks for the replies,
@jrrdw Yes, I want to shorten up the distance for over/ under between fittings.

@grumpy, I'll have to check which ones fit in which other T's and elbows
Just haven't found any yet.
and I've gotten pretty comfortable just standing around/looking in home depot

@ biggsauce, thanks, your reply looks the most promising, So that's it!! (not like clide's design but what I'm looking for)
that sure is a clean look the way you used "street elbows"on the intimidator cannon.
Even my 1" pipes are kind of far apart and I want to design a 3" or 4"
over under but I hadn't seen any in the local home depot here.
Thanks fellas, I got to run to an appt. so I'll get back later 8)

You could always cut up a pipe nipple and pull one of these:

I believe I just used a 2" elbow with one end cut down, a cut down 2"x1.5" bushing, and a 1.5" street elbow, but that series of fittings was because I needed special ends on the other sides of the elbows.

For a more normal gun you could probably just use one normal elbow and one street elbow and cut them down if you need it closer. However I wouldn't suggest cutting it down if the elbow is going to be part of the chamber. Even for that piece that was part of the barrel I was very careful to make the parts fit together VERY tightly so I would get a good bond on the limited length of my socket.

clide wrote:I believe I just used a 2" elbow with one end cut down, a cut down 2"x1.5" bushing, and a 1.5" street elbow, but that series of fittings was because I needed special ends on the other sides of the elbows.

For a more normal gun you could probably just use one normal elbow and one street elbow and cut them down if you need it closer. However I wouldn't suggest cutting it down if the elbow is going to be part of the chamber. Even for that piece that was part of the barrel I was very careful to make the parts fit together VERY tightly so I would get a good bond on the limited length of my socket.

Wow!!! Thanks for replying clide,
BTW I think your GB semi really deserved the award.
I probably should have asked this one as a reply to your post but I didn't know if you'd respond.

Also I was thinking this topic would make a great how-to since it really gives a more compact design and also has benefits as far as the pressure rounding corners probably.
Maybe yourself or someone could do one on that?

@Fnord, thanks for the pic, I've been thinking about getting another oxy- acetylene torch for welding.
The ones for HVAC seem to be priced the best (around 100$).

BTW I don't usualy check out the hybrids but your Thunderstruck is my favorite on there!!!
Also I have some design info I'll be trying to get together, that could be useful involving a component I call a "thunderswitch".
It would be simple to combine with JSR's blow forward bolt I dicussed with JSR.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/6mm-sem ... 10075.html He was nice enough to give me a diagram here:http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/solenoi ... 13966.html (on that diagram at the bottom, the control that alternates filling and firing valve would be a "thunderswitch")