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Help With Making A Hammer?
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:01 am
by Major Collins
i am face with the the challenge of making a hammer roughly 17 mm circumference without a lathe... what do you guys suggest?
by the way how heavy should it be its hiting a blowgun valve stem
Edited and merged by jrrdw.
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:34 am
by jrrdw
As in a gun hammer?
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:19 am
by Major Collins
yeah lol , not an actual hammer already got 2 of them ha
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:11 am
by Crna Legija
buy some 17mm steel round bar?
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:14 am
by Gaderelguitarist
already got 2 of them
Geez, I have probably 15.
Basically you want to look at
this thread.
His diagram shows how his hammer valve works, and would be easy to duplicate.

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:28 am
by Major Collins
what do you do with 15 hammer lol a bit excessive
and i know how it works , i just need to make the hammer i already have a button/poppet valve (whichever you prefer to call it) made .
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:10 pm
by Gaderelguitarist
Each hammer has a purpose, from my various sized ball peen hammers, to my carving hammer, dead blow mallet, and various claw hammers.
Well you could probably make a weighted hammer from washers and nuts on threaded rod. This would make it easily align with your hammer spring. I only included the diagram to get some ideas flowing.
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:56 pm
by mark.f
I have an 8 oz. peening hammer and a 16 lb. sledge. I figure if one doesn't work the other one will.
As to the hammer, plain steel stock 17mm in diameter is the simplest solution. Denser materials could be used but things like lead will deform against the harder valve pin.
hammer making
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 7:30 am
by Major Collins
if i were to melt enough silver solder into a tube and let it dry to make a cylinderr would it be strong , and heavy enough to be used as a hammer?
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:05 am
by mark.f
I highly suspect it would deform when striking your valve pin/actuator.
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:05 am
by Gippeto
Why not simply epoxy a bolt in that same tube running lengthwise?
Need more mass....use a larger (diameter) bolt.
What are you building?
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:50 am
by wyz2285
Fiber glass past, when it's ready it has enough mass and strength, but it would be better if you glue a metal plate on the surface of the bolt that hits the pin.
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 9:29 am
by Major Collins
so an epoxied bolt should be enough? how much should it weigh and does that even matter?
@Gippeto
its a hammer for hitting a hammer valve
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:29 pm
by Gun Freak
The weight matters, but we need to know the specs of you valve; pressure, seat diameter etc.
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 9:09 pm
by Gippeto
With the "right" spring, a piece of steel 3/4" diameter and 1 1/4" in length will be more than enough to open a valve with a sealing diameter of .27" @ 2000psi.
Use a 3/8" bolt and call it good. Striker travel should be ~ 1 1/2" depending on the spring.
Cheap to change later to get more power or more shots/fill.