Push Button firing a Solenoid, any ideas??

[Atattack]

After Dewey-1 recommended the Asco 8353 valve. I found this version of the valve.

http://www.ascovalvenet.com/PDF/IMSheets/214639-144.pdf

It is same valve but is an in-line. Seems the only difference is it does not have a pilot and an exhaust hole, just a pilot. So I am trying to figure out the most effecient way to pilot this valve with either an electronic button or a push button that I can mount to handle.

I have read numerous posts on here talking about a ton of ways to pilot a solenoid quickly but am trying to figure out how to do it with a push button without losing effeciency. One option I have thought of is hooking up an air line to the pilot hole and attaching this push button valve and welding a trigger on it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6790t42/=dw4nks

I am trying to figure out a way to use a QEV or another small solenoid but am planning on filling up through chamber so not sure how this would work. Any ideas appreciated.

Info on gun this valve will be used on:

Chamber: 3" x 24" Aluminum Pipe
Barrel: 3" x 48" Aluminum Pipe
PSI Range: 100-150psi
Projectiles: Golf balls/Water Balloons/Potatoes
I will use different barrels for these other projectiles

Thanks for help.

[Goats spudz]

or you can take the trigger off a blowgun and put a new trigger on that and save money, and you can add an airline

[Atattack]

Here is a picture of what I'm thinking. I wanted something stronger than a blow gun that I can hold on to very well. I'm going to shoot up to 5 oz. projectiles so want something to compensate for the recoil.

[Goats spudz]

this is a good trigger like mine!

[Atattack]

How much would something like that cost to have made? I have only basic tools. My entire gun is aluminum so was hoping to make the handle aluminum.

[Goats spudz]

cheap i have basic tools too, and my handle is MDF and plywood

[Atattack]

Pretty sure aluminum would be harder to work with.

[Goats spudz]

Pretty sure aluminum would be harder to work with.

hacksaw, belt sander or grinding wheel, drill, if possible milling machine or dremel

[dewey-1]

Here is another valve to consider;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goyen-Controls- ... 3a674049c2

Data sheet;

http://www.piiny.com/goyen/pdfs/Goyen_T ... Valves.pdf

[Atattack]

Would having a 6" hose attached to a blowgun/main valve hurt performance if compared to attaching blowgun directly to valve?

[dewey-1]

Would having a 6" hose attached to a blowgun/main valve hurt performance if compared to attaching blowgun directly to valve?

Definitely not if using the remote air actuation of the ASCO 8353H038.
Keep in mind that this valve has 2 valves in it. A pilot valve that actuates the main valve. That is the added feature for extended remote air actuation.

Here is an example on my first pneumatic.
It used an 1-1/2 valve and I tried to use a blowgun directly attached to 1-1/2 valve for triggering. The results were terrible because the blowgun was restricting the flow.

What I then tried was a 3/4" valve triggering the 1-1/2 valve and then got the anticipated results. You will find that for larger valves this is almost always required.

Having two valves in one is quite beneficial because it is a one piece unit verses two valves with extra fittings/pipe.

Here is the link for pictures;

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/comfy-c ... 11219.html

[Atattack]

Dewey, due tonthe design of my gun, I am going to go with the valve at top of this page. It is a 8353 valve, but it is not remote piloted. It is in-line, and just has an exhaust hole on top. I should still get pretty good performance from a valve like this right? Even thought iti is not remote. Would a blow gun on a 6" hose firing this valve still give solid performance? Figured the amount of gas it would be piloting in top of valve would be minimal.

[dewey-1]

Keep in mind that that valve will be prone to the same problem as I had unless you can find a blowgun that has 1/4 inch ID porting all the way through. A ball valve will work but not as comfortable as a triggered blowgun.

If I was spending that much money, I would want something that will work rather than hope that by modifying and tinkering to make it work.

Here is the valve I bought for the first cannon.
https://www.plumbersstock.com/product/14111

I had the same mind set as you and ended up being disappointed!
It is called "Been there, Done that". Do not follow the same path!

Why the requirement for direct inline?
Did you view my Nerf launcher design? It is close to being and inline but has a gun type feel rather than a bazooka or shoulder resting launcher.

Maybe these comparisons will influence you.

Compare priceshttp://www.valvestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=42448 8353H038


http://www.valvestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=42449 8353J39

You are spending money on a solenoid that you will never use!

[Atattack]

So what you are saying is thenmain difference between the valve I am talking about in OP and the 8353h038 is the 3/8" exhaust remote port makes it a lot faster. I'm just trying to wrap my head around how the 2 pilot ports makesnit a lot quicker. Thanks a lot man fornthe help, I would hate to buy wrong valve and appreciate help.

[dewey-1]

Basically yes!
The 3/8 port is the exhaust for the main valve with no air resriction.

Note; I edited my previous post about metal chamber and CV.

I would use a 4 inch at 24 inch length for a more comfortable "stock"

I can do a 3D CAD model for you if you like!.