Question about supah and mauler valves.
Supah and mauler valves are brand names they are professionally made piston valves. So if you want to make one it would be referred to as a piston valve. Any well made piston valve can usually take as muck pressure as the pipe its in.
Now for you making one, you cant make a piston valve in side a copper tee. it has been done plenty of times just look at the pneumatic showcase.
Now for you making one, you cant make a piston valve in side a copper tee. it has been done plenty of times just look at the pneumatic showcase.
"Those who are different change the world. Those who are the same keep it that way"
All you had to do was go onto the product pages and it'll tell you.......
Michael
SGort found the mauler's cracked above 125psi actually so that isn't the case.......lukemc wrote:Any well made piston valve can usually take as muck pressure as the pipe its in.
Michael
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And the Mauler Valves are machined using a wood lathe,not very precise.125psi and it failed,wow there needs to be some design put into that oh and do you no were abouts the valve failed?

I posted the exact email Gort sent me in the Supah and Mauler Pressure Rating thread - I can't be asked to look it up 
To be fair the conponents aren't designed to have things slammed into each other. And I think it's very likely that Joel has the same problem 'cept I don't think anyone's asked him.....
Michael
EDIT: Also you don't need axtremely precise tolerance on these valves - I mean the fact that people make 'em by hacking at stuff in a drill sure proves that theory......
To be fair the conponents aren't designed to have things slammed into each other. And I think it's very likely that Joel has the same problem 'cept I don't think anyone's asked him.....
Michael
EDIT: Also you don't need axtremely precise tolerance on these valves - I mean the fact that people make 'em by hacking at stuff in a drill sure proves that theory......
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Hacking with a drill?What part would they do that on?Gepard wrote:I posted the exact email Gort sent me in the Supah and Mauler Pressure Rating thread - I can't be asked to look it up
To be fair the conponents aren't designed to have things slammed into each other. And I think it's very likely that Joel has the same problem 'cept I don't think anyone's asked him.....
Michael
EDIT: Also you don't need axtremely precise tolerance on these valves - I mean the fact that people make 'em by hacking at stuff in a drill sure proves that theory......
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They might of done that to there own valve,but these are a marketed valve they should have very tight tolerances and build quality because who would want to buy a valve they know wasn't machined or manufactured to high standards?.And components are not meant to be slammed into each other I agree but that has to factored into the design so it doesn't fail when this happens because it's the nature of the valve things slam into each other!

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Michael said "No "Hacking at stuff IN a drill" someone on here said they put their piston in a drill and then starting hacking at it to cut the o-ring grooves.
Michael"
That would probably work, i put a carrot on my dremel, and took a knife to it, and managed to cut out a little goblet, and martini glass. Dubbed "poor man's carrot lathe"
Michael"
That would probably work, i put a carrot on my dremel, and took a knife to it, and managed to cut out a little goblet, and martini glass. Dubbed "poor man's carrot lathe"
_Fnord wrote:OMG you have broked teh universe!!!11exclamationpoint!1!
^^^^CLICK^^^^
you "lathed" a carrot? Genius! put a potato on that and cut spiral grooves down it so instead of a rifled barrel have a rifled projectile!chartreusesnot wrote: That would probably work, i put a carrot on my dremel, and took a knife to it, and managed to cut out a little goblet, and martini glass. Dubbed "poor man's carrot lathe"
"Those who are different change the world. Those who are the same keep it that way"
Rna_dualers,
Your confusing build quality and tolerance. One is not the same as the other. I agree that the build quality should be high but you don't need tight tolerances at all as long as your within a mm that's fine - and that sort of tolerances can easily be achieved using a wood lathe. Using my metal lathe (and even my mill) without the toolpost (ie like a wood lathe) I can achieve even less than that. Doesn't take much skill just the right tooling.....
Just 'cos you buy something off professional it doesn't mean it should have tight tolerances - the tolerances are determined by the product's nature and that's why I mentioned about the drill 'cos piston valves don't need that high a tolerance.
Michael
Your confusing build quality and tolerance. One is not the same as the other. I agree that the build quality should be high but you don't need tight tolerances at all as long as your within a mm that's fine - and that sort of tolerances can easily be achieved using a wood lathe. Using my metal lathe (and even my mill) without the toolpost (ie like a wood lathe) I can achieve even less than that. Doesn't take much skill just the right tooling.....
Just 'cos you buy something off professional it doesn't mean it should have tight tolerances - the tolerances are determined by the product's nature and that's why I mentioned about the drill 'cos piston valves don't need that high a tolerance.
Huh? PVC fittings are tested and designed to sit here with water or some other liquid at X psi. By making a piston valve were due to the moving parts the fitting experiences extreme amount of stress - you lower the pressure rating. The valve only fails when it is used above it's new (lower)pressure rating which I'm sure you'll agree - 125psi is a fairly high pressure. And it is designed to take this new pressure and thus the stress caused.And components are not meant to be slammed into each other I agree but that has to factored into the design so it doesn't fail when this happens because it's the nature of the valve things slam into each other!
Michael
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