Re design of 1 1/2 inch piston and housing Tee

[SpudUke5]

Well if you didnt notice my other post, i made a 1 1/2 inch piston which now doesnt work. But im not stopping there. I am going to recast and recreate my piston and my gun with improvements. Well i knew this would be hard to describe in words so............I made a diagram!!!!!

It is pretty much self explanatory



If you cant read my important question i have there, this is what it says

"Now here is my important question, would i have to put a hole here because i inserted a 1 1/2 inch pipe into the Tee? Now the vertical part of the Tee (Meaning the up down part) is blocked by the 1 1/2 inch pipe. So would i have to put a hole in the 1 1/2 inch pipe so that air can get into the chamber? And this is NOT a equilization hole i am talking about."

I have thought about the question there that i wrote, and if that hole isnt there, then the air would not be about to go into the chamber because it is being blocked by the pipe.
I hope to finish this today because i have to go to school tomorrow and i fall is coming so i gotta finish. Hope to hear from the best of ya.

[SpudBlaster15]

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[origin unknown]

That design will be way too much trouble to make and wouldn't be worth the effort. Make a valve that is like this: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/c19os-1 ... 10494.html Heres another valve that is constructed the same way as c19o's exept for the bolt in back part: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/pvcmast ... 10086.html
. With these two valves I hope you can take what you can from both and make a working piston valve. I made a version of c19o's valve in one day with only a saw and some pvc glue.

[SpudUke5]

I am going by Mrcrowley's advice on this post. The reason why i mentioned this is because i was talking to spudguneryyyyy and he didnt understand my question and kept giving me a different answer that did not resolve the problem i was talking about. I did lubricate the piston but i am going to remake the piston and recast it so that it is very tight so that it will for sure work. I didnt say i am going to recast the piston using a scrap piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe and that will make it tight. And for the barrel it wasnt cut, it was purely flat striaght store bought. And also why would i need to lubricate the sealing Face? with this new design, i am getting rid of the lip and putting 1 1/2 inch pipe that will resolve my problem of the smoothness of the piston in the piston housing. It is all cemented in a proper angle. So i am pretty sure i am resolving my problems.

Edit: Ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. I think i have misunderstood some stuff that i was told. NVM. Huh man it sucks just getting things wrong, especially when you just finished it and you did it wrong.

@ origin unknown
Ok i can see how to do that. I probably cant make one like c190's because i cant make a o-ring so i can try pvc master's design

[origin unknown]

You dont have to have O-rings for c19o's valve. I made one like his and I dont have O-rings. His valve is basically pvcmaster's with a female adapter and a threaded cap on the back end with 2" pipe for the piston to travel in. pvcmaster had a problem with the back end of his valve leaking so you should go with c19o's back end design to eliminate problems.

[SpudUke5]

Ok i would try to do that but because Home depot doesnt have all i need to make c19o's valve, i cant really make it. Just makes me mad that i am limited with materials

[origin unknown]

Don't make a bolt in back cap because they are way too hard to keep from leaking. That is the point I was tryin to make. Your above valve will work if you dont have the 1.5" pipe extend all the way to the bushing reducer like that. Instead have the 1.5" pipe extend only to were the downwards part of the tee starts.

[MrCrowley]

All I can say, is keep your old setup, the piston housing is fine, the piston that you made isn't. All you need to do is adapt the piston to your needs and fix the flaws. For this I suggest reading my post in your old thread.

You're supposed to only let the 1 1/2" pipe go about 2" in, so it hits the lip before the bottom opening. But make sure you have left room in the tee socket for a plug to be bolted in.

Read my post in thisd thread:
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... tml#127474

Have you seen this?
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/how-to- ... 10381.html

That might help you, though I used a end cap instead of a plug for the pilot setup, which I have recently changed to a threaded adapter.

Here's a quick diagram:

Black = Tee
Green = sleeved pipe
Maroon = 'lip' inside tee
Grey = Reducing threaded plug
Brown - Pilot setup
Yellow = fill valve
red circle = ball valve(pilot valve)
Orange = piston(the grey is a bolt and the washer holding on the sealing face)
Purple = Barrel
Sky Blue = sealing face