ok guys, I need some help.
I am wondering If I should cut off the 10 feet of 6 inch chamber, and replace it with two 10 foot sections of 4 inch.
this way, I could safely charge the gun to over 100 psi, and I could truly unleash it's power.
I think the chamber volume would actually increase, but so would the unweildlyness of the gun. the chamber volume would not increase much, though
PLEASE!!!!
I need your thoughts on the matter!
I want to punch through 1/4 inch steel plate easily, and with big projectiles and high pressure, it's doable.
this next overhaul will be more than just a paint job and a new knick knack attached to the chamber, this will be a big time overhaul.
pretty much the whole gun will be different.
I'm gonna go make some paint drawings.
so, PLEASE, SOME OF YOUR THOUGHTS!
schmanman needs SWAT help!
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brogdenlaxmiddie
- Corporal

- Posts: 562
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2007 2:19 pm
I think that you changing the 6" chambers to 4" chambers would be ok. The only thing is, would your fittings still work? just checking. But, you could then create some new stuff with your leftover 6" pipe... A new cannon maybe? But, all in all, It sounds like a good idea! 
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brogdenlaxmiddie
- Corporal

- Posts: 562
- Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2007 2:19 pm
Just a question on the SWAT.... what kinda valve did you use?
Sounds like a great plan, more pressure is the way forward.
As for the unwieldiness -I didn't look at the SWAT the first time I saw it and think:
"That looks like it's really sleek and easy to aim."
Unwieldy is only really a major problem with handheld cannons - in your case, it's just going to make it a bit harder to move and aim, but it won't stop you using it.
As for the unwieldiness -I didn't look at the SWAT the first time I saw it and think:
"That looks like it's really sleek and easy to aim."
Unwieldy is only really a major problem with handheld cannons - in your case, it's just going to make it a bit harder to move and aim, but it won't stop you using it.
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
Personally I'd say you could do it anyway.
Get yourself a 1/2" stick of silver steel, sharpen the tip, harden it, stick a cone of wood on the other end, have a makeshift sabot of old paper/whatever to keep it straight on firing and let rip.
Half a metre of 1/2" steel rod isn't going to be stopped by some piddly 1/4" plate
On a similar note I really want to have whatever it is that was used to fire 1/2" steel bolts through about 4" of armour plate to hold on a slab of steel as a temporary shell hole repair at sea. Saw about a two metre square slab of WW2 armour plate with that on it the other month.
Get yourself a 1/2" stick of silver steel, sharpen the tip, harden it, stick a cone of wood on the other end, have a makeshift sabot of old paper/whatever to keep it straight on firing and let rip.
Half a metre of 1/2" steel rod isn't going to be stopped by some piddly 1/4" plate
On a similar note I really want to have whatever it is that was used to fire 1/2" steel bolts through about 4" of armour plate to hold on a slab of steel as a temporary shell hole repair at sea. Saw about a two metre square slab of WW2 armour plate with that on it the other month.
Other than an increase in the pressure, is there any other gains that may come about the change?
As far as the volume:
(3.14 * 3.998/2 * 3.998/2 * 120) * 2 = 3008 cu in
3.14 * 6.031/2 * 6.031/2 * 120 = 3391 cu in
I did get that right, didn't I
The two additional chambers will not increase the volume but I would think that the pressure has more to do with the power than the volume.
I say go for it.
As far as the volume:
(3.14 * 3.998/2 * 3.998/2 * 120) * 2 = 3008 cu in
3.14 * 6.031/2 * 6.031/2 * 120 = 3391 cu in
I did get that right, didn't I
The two additional chambers will not increase the volume but I would think that the pressure has more to do with the power than the volume.
I say go for it.
It's a piston valveJust a question on the SWAT.... what kinda valve did you use?
Yea i think you should, but if your cannon is socket welded, the how will you be able to take those out. I have searched your cannon, but i never knew how you were able to make repairs.
Are they threaded fittings? I want to make my cannon as servicable as possible but i dont want alot of threaded fittings so can you tell me how you plan to change the chambers.
Thanks
Are they threaded fittings? I want to make my cannon as servicable as possible but i dont want alot of threaded fittings so can you tell me how you plan to change the chambers.
Thanks
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
@LikimysCrotchus5: PVC join solvent - it reverses the effects of PVC cement and just lets you take the pieces straight apart.
You do need to put a special sort of primer on first to be able to use it though.
...or I may just be talking absolute rubbish.
You do need to put a special sort of primer on first to be able to use it though.
...or I may just be talking absolute rubbish.
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
Well if you are right then i have never heard of that, but if true, then i am going to buy some so i can do the same with my future cannon.
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Unless you plan on barrels over 4" diameter, the 4" chambers will be fine.
Apart from increasing the pressure, what you really need to do is make the valve in a 6" tee, and bring porting up to 4".
1/4" steel plate is tougher than it seems. The piece I have is hardened to the point that even hardened darts get mashed flat when they hit it. Of course, with the upgrades, the SWAT should have ~5x the available muzzle energy of the SCTBDC, so there shouldn't be any problem. I think you could put 1" steel rod darts through it with the amount of power you're going to have on tap.
Apart from increasing the pressure, what you really need to do is make the valve in a 6" tee, and bring porting up to 4".
1/4" steel plate is tougher than it seems. The piece I have is hardened to the point that even hardened darts get mashed flat when they hit it. Of course, with the upgrades, the SWAT should have ~5x the available muzzle energy of the SCTBDC, so there shouldn't be any problem. I think you could put 1" steel rod darts through it with the amount of power you're going to have on tap.
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
...you know, I suspect I was talking absolute rubbish.LikimysCrotchus5 wrote:Well if you are right then i have never heard of that, but if true, then i am going to buy some so i can do the same with my future cannon.
Of course, it doesn't matter to those of us that use something called "solder" - completely reversible joints.
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
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