Anybody here know how to remove Glued pvc

[Radiation]

Hi All, I need to remove an existing part on my spudgun in order to accommodate a cam-lock coupler rather than my P.I.T.A. screw-on/screw-off barrel. I have looked at previous threads on the topic, of which there are plenty, none of which were very definitive. Just in case you're curious, I absolutely do not need the piece I'm removing, but obviously don't want to damage my spud gun in the process. I don't know if anyone has come up with a killer method of removing two glued parts, but here's what I've read thus far that seem plausible, but none seem very easy.

Method 1: cut cut cut. Basically removing the glued pieces by totally destroying one, which I'm ok with. The problem is it seem like a rather labor intensive and potentially damaging process. I do have a dremel and am not afraid to try to hack this off, but this leaves little if no room for error.

Method 2: Heat removal. This one has me scratching my head. Basically heating the glued parts and prying them apart. This doesn't seem to jive with my understanding of how PVC glue works. It basically melts the two parts into one right? Therefore heat can only melt both parts rather than the seam. I don't know, but if it's possible, I could see how this could be an easier method.

Method 3: Hammering the two pieces apart. Again very little room for error and even higher risk of potential error.

Any feed back would be much appreciated. I hope to never have to do this again!

Thanks

[iisthemuffin]

I would think method one would be best. Because you are right, the pieces become one. Thats what solvent welding is. If you get them hot enough im sure you can pull them apart. Thats because you jsut turn everything to moosh.

I dont know about hammering. It doesnt seem like it would break clean. I would cut the piece out and them dremel it flush with the priginal fitting/pipe.

[hi]

just buy new pipe. its so cheap it isnt worth trying to remove the glue, unless you just cut off the part you screwed up.

[starman]

Several here claim to be able to "unglue" the parts...Mr.Crowley has offered a couple of methods which I don't remember all the details. PM him and see if he'll help you with them.

My position is pretty much the standard plumbers position....it's a permanent weld...tough dookie. I know it's a pain but I would just disassemble what you can and rebuild the chamber to accomodate the cam lock threads.

When working with a new design I usually don't weld things up until as many decisions have been made as possible. Having a threaded 2 or 3" breech and a 4" intake side openings allows for lots of options.

[iisthemuffin]

I agree starman. Its a permanent weld. You cant "unglue" them. But you can remove unwanted parts.

[jonnyboy]

I agree starman. Its a permanent weld. You cant "unglue" them. But you can remove unwanted parts.

I would think by taking off the piece you would be weakening the pipe it is attached to. At the very least increasing the risk of a snap.

[iisthemuffin]

Well i guess in a sense your kind of right. It would probably make the pipe thinner than it was originally. and it would probably be less chemically stable

[Radiation]

I was afraid of that. I'm pretty good with a dremel, but this will probably take an hour or two if I'm lucky. I wouldn't have changed anything on my Cannon if I didn't discover this website and for the first time see a Cam-lock, so in a way this is all your fault . This part will be absolutely essential for the quick load system I have devised. Of course my big spud gun has been modded so many times I can no longer just saw and add to it, I have to either scrap the entire thing, which would break my heart, or perform elective invasive surgery. I think I'll be doing a lot of dremeling tonight!

[rp181]

There are special drill bits to remove PVC from fittings, but there expensive. 1 would be best.

[Radiation]

OK I got er dun this weekend. It was MUCH easier than anticipated. Took about 15 minutes. Here's how I did it:

first off the fitting was a 4"-2" reducer, the kind with a conical reduction tip. I cut off the cone portion to leave only the 4" connection portion and the PVC pipe it was glued to. I then used a dremel and cut sections about 5-6" apart with a grinding wheel attachment being careful not to cut into the pipe and only cut the fitting.

After these sections were cut (and 3 grinding bits later, fyi, cut slow and with little pressure) I used a flat head screw driver and a hammer to remove the sections piece by piece. This sounds a little scary, but it really was the easiest part. Tap lightly and you won't even gouge into the pvc. The primed glue, while a tough connection, is softer than the pvc and will give way. Sometimes you'll get a few bits that refuse to come off, just dremel them down and you are done!

It was very easy considering the circumstances. I am comfortable in saying that in the instance that you don't care that you're destroying the fitting this method is pretty fool proof and should cause no structural damage to your gun.

[Pilgrimman]

I bet that would work with reducer bushings too, because they need a coupler which is similar to your reducer, but it doesn't reduce. Nice method!

[Radiation]

There's no reason it shouldn't work with a bushing and coupler using the exact same method. Again cut off the bushing and part of the coupler then just dremel and hammer. I'm proabably going to do it again to the same spud gun. I went a little nuts adding bells and whistles that really didn't do anything but make it heavier.

[starman]

Good job on the PVC reclaim effort!... although I would have just rebuilt the chamber, part cost being relatively low. Also the 4" stuff is probably a little easier to work with as you did. I imagine the smaller the parts get the harder it will be to break them loose.

[Radiation]

Good job on the PVC reclaim effort!... although I would have just rebuilt the chamber, part cost being relatively low.

Not on this gun I'll post pics someday, but suffice it to say it's the largest "Carriable" gun I have ever created. It has it's own shoulder strap and some other customized features I would have hated to rebuild! This was definately easier and cheaper than a rebuild.

[potatoflinger]

first off the fitting was a 4"-2" reducer, the kind with a conical reduction tip.

It's good that you got it off, especially since it was DWV