in the very near future i will be making a hi pressur copper coaxel
i have 2 choices solder the fittings or braise them
i would Imagen the brazed joint would be stronger but would the heating process weaken the mettle i am using 28mm pipe chamber and 15mm barrel and up to 1000psi
what removable joint could i use to access the piston i don't trust compression fittings with this pressure
strongest joint copper ?
I think just soldering would be sufficient, I would be worried about maybe accidentally melting the pipe with brazing or worse, thinning it without your knowledge only to be discovered upon pressurizing
, after all it IS the same material that you are getting hot enough to melt, Have you heard of people brazing copper pipe before? because I have never heard such a thing.
I would just stick with soldering, its easy and it is very strong, probably the joint will be stronger than the pipe is anyways.
As for accessing the piston, what about connecting a male thread adapter to the copper, then using a threaded galvanized reducer as a cap? then adding all of your fill valves and trigger to that.
EDIT: I researched brazing copper pipe, and it is real and stronger than soldering, but I do not know if it is really needed in this case... solder has done well so far, I would look into if copper can even hold 1000 psi.
I would just stick with soldering, its easy and it is very strong, probably the joint will be stronger than the pipe is anyways.
As for accessing the piston, what about connecting a male thread adapter to the copper, then using a threaded galvanized reducer as a cap? then adding all of your fill valves and trigger to that.
EDIT: I researched brazing copper pipe, and it is real and stronger than soldering, but I do not know if it is really needed in this case... solder has done well so far, I would look into if copper can even hold 1000 psi.

Add me on MSN to chat about whatever!
- inonickname
- First Sergeant 4

- Posts: 2606
- Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:27 am
Brazing is stronger, but you're going to hurt yourself taking copper to 1000 psi. I haven't found any copper pipe which will even nearly safely hold that pressure.
- Gippeto
- First Sergeant 3


- Posts: 2504
- Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:14 am
- Location: Soon to be socialist shit hole.
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 17 times
A brazed joint is actually stronger.
BUT;
The temps required for brazing will anneal the copper tube, and actually lower the maximum working pressure.
95/5 tin/antimony would seem to be a better choice.
According to the copper tube handbook, 3/4" Type M has a rated working pressure of 701psi @ 100F, and a burst pressure of 4715psi.
3/4" Type L has a rated working pressre of 1002psi, and a burst pressure of 5900psi.
Get yours here;
It's free.
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_ ... ndbook.pdf
BUT;
The temps required for brazing will anneal the copper tube, and actually lower the maximum working pressure.
95/5 tin/antimony would seem to be a better choice.
According to the copper tube handbook, 3/4" Type M has a rated working pressure of 701psi @ 100F, and a burst pressure of 4715psi.
3/4" Type L has a rated working pressre of 1002psi, and a burst pressure of 5900psi.
Get yours here;
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_ ... ndbook.pdf
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Removable as in compression fittings? Those should not be used in cannons at all, they slip. I know of at least one accident with those (no injury fortunately).
I've used a female adapter with a screw plug to access the piston in my copper pneumatics.
The copper tube handbook is a great resource. You can also find the rating of different kinds of solder joints there. Personally I'd go with steel when dealing with these kinds of pressures though.
I've used a female adapter with a screw plug to access the piston in my copper pneumatics.
The copper tube handbook is a great resource. You can also find the rating of different kinds of solder joints there. Personally I'd go with steel when dealing with these kinds of pressures though.
Create an account or sign in to join the discussion
You need to be a member in order to post a reply
Create an account
Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute
Sign in
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 4 Replies
- 1353 Views
-
Last post by Ragnarok
-
- 10 Replies
- 3043 Views
-
Last post by jook13
-
- 70 Replies
- 18095 Views
-
Last post by DYI
-
- 0 Replies
- 7069 Views
-
Last post by quinn whitsitt
-
- 19 Replies
- 5557 Views
-
Last post by Panzerfaust





