I didn't raise the point, out of pure kindness...I notice you added epoxy around the schrader
The diagram is one I posted back in 2007, my idea was that someone would do the machining part beyond my facilities but I would save them work by making the endcap myself. I would still do it if I was making the hybrid cartridge as the shrader would be attached to the electrode and would therefore need to be insulated from the cartridge body.velocity3x wrote:I notice you added epoxy around the schrader in your design. I guess old habits die hard.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
what sort of accuracy and repeatability do you want from your mill ? If you are intending to mill plastics and non-ferrous you could consider building your own router based mill. For something that can produce sub-millimetre accuracy on a 300mm x 300mm scale your total spend would be under $1000, probably closer to $500 depending on what you can source from scrap / recycle resources. With the right design you get a mill, profile cutter, engraver and high precision drill all in one. 
Sounds like it would be a fun project in its own right but I think I would rather fork out the cash for something I know will work and use as a means to an end.evilvet wrote:Just to return to the subject of this thread for a moment
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Normal pipe threads are tapered so they become tight as they screw together. You can use a plug or bottoming tap to make the cap with even threads all the way to the bottom. Then the pipe can be threaded the same. This will permit screwing the pipe all the way in to the burst disk.jor2daje wrote:Making the burst disk holder the way you designed would be pretty easy, all i would do is is have a section after the male threaded portion that is smaller than your tap hole. This way you can just use a standard tap and the longer non threaded portion will seat on the burst disk before you reach the bottom of the threads.
If that didn't make sense I'll do a quick picture
Bottoming tap or plug tap:[2] The tap illustrated in the top of the image has a continuous cutting edge with almost no taper — between 1 and 1.5 threads of taper is typical.[3] This feature enables a bottoming tap to cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. A bottoming tap is usually used to cut threads in a hole that has already been partially threaded using one of the more tapered types of tap; the tapered end ("tap chamfer") of a bottoming tap is too short to successfully start into an unthreaded hole. In the US they are commonly known as bottoming taps, but in Australia and Britain they are also known as plug taps.
)hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
hmm... so it wouldn't be suitable to run the piston in, even with some polishing? Again, I'm completely new to this so forgive my abject ignorance...inonickname wrote:Yeah, the inside will be rough as guts. I'd find a moderately walled Al tube and work from there.
... because friction would probably outweigh the small benefits of sealing as opposed to just using a finely matched piston/chamber diameter.why not put a nice o-ring on the piston
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Acknowledged, I don't expect to get it right first timejrrdw wrote:Jack, if you never cut threads on a lathe before you need some round stock to practice with.
You also need to practice grinding/sharpening your tooling (cutters/bits).
I can see what you mean, but I don't see that happening to me - I have enough pending projects for me to never feel that I've "done it all" - besides, nothing has ever been quite as a satisfying as making stuff go bangBrian the brain wrote:A word of warning though...
after I got my lathe I started losing interest in spudding..
My thoughts exactly, if I'm going to part with what is not an inconsiderable sum of money, I want it to be a big step. Also these days I'm working on things that are beyond what epoxy can really take.I think your first option would enable you to do what you do but easier and cleaner.
Getting a quality lathe and mill would enable you to do what you CAN'T do now..
A true step up.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
I have a very old (out of copyright as far as I can tell) book that covers just about all you would ever want to know about every kind of machining operation that existed at the time it was written, I will see if I can scan some key pages to help get you started.... any subjects you are specifically interested in?jackssmirkingrevenge wrote: Hadn't considered this aspect, any recommended reading I might encounter online?
