to make relatively lightweight, penetrating slugs, get a 1 1/2 inch to 1/2 or 3/4 inch reducer, then screw in a nipple, preferably 6" to 12" long. oh, It fits in a 2" barrel
Wouldn't it be a better idea to put a sabot around the long pipe and lauch it pipe first? Like a dart or a sabot round for a challanger 2 tank?
I don't see why you want to lauch the back first Good idea though. You should put an end cap on the free end so it can do more damage. Are you going to use this design for the swat gun?
yes, I already do. the reason you would wast to shoot the back first is so the ammo turns sideways, contacting and therefore damaging more surface area.
those types of ammo work excelent i have a few darts like that, i cut the circles out with a holesaw (find a size that works with your barrel) then ran a threaded rod through the middle hole and put a one inch dowel on the back about 6 inches long. on the front i put the same dowel but i sharpened it so it can stick in things easier.the front only sticks out about an inch and a half, and i used 3/4 inch plywood for the discs. it works best with the disk in the front because then it pulls the dart from the front and flies straight instead of pushing from the back, when you do it tis way the darts tumbleand fly crooked.
I took some 12 gauge shells, using a bench grinder, i took off the metal bands and front metal plate , and made the smooth until it fits in the sch40...
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I've have done that but the kind you are showing some times the are too tight , I think but using a different wad works well , using a wad and shell...
This is my new oxigen powered mini.It's from tick pipe, a battery and an aluminium barrel.It makes a super cool berrel flashes(depending on the fuel...
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The fuel is acetone.When I put mathanol instead it gives great barrel flashes.Like a fireballs(and still make a sound like a detonation).Because this...