Well here's my brand new golf ball cannon that I got all the parts for christmas. It has a 24"x 4" chamber and a 60" golf ball barrel (1.5" sdr 21 sleeved in 2" sch.80). It uses a 2" porting mauler valve. I haven't used it yet since its my chrismas present so I will post some results after I shoot it.
Nice, I like it. How do the mauler valves compare to the Supahs?
Exeptionally clean build(or haven't you glued it yet lol) When you get a chance to shoot it, fire at a stack of cd's and get a video. Now THAT would be spectacular.
Hehehehehe I replied first lol.
Last edited by Insomniac on Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well no one is exactly sure because they haven't been tested yet but its supposed to be just as good. Yeah I bought some clear primer so there wouldn't be purple stains all over. I will definetly post damage pics and videos once I fire it.
there are a lot of ways to measure "better" it is a factor of reliability, efficiency, power, and gaurentueed-ness
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The only downside to this, which does not matter to many people, is that this needs to be filled from behind the piston. A Supah does not because of its spring.
What do you guys sugest shooting it at for damge shots? I was thinking maybe this old tv I have or a huge chunck of ballistics gel or maybe just plain old plywood.
Yeah, I've heard barrel sealers are better.
Who cares if it has to be filled from behind the piston???
SHOOT SOME CD'S they shatter and shiny foil goes EVERYWHERE
As to the gun, noice!
Clear primer and glue really helped this thing come out clean. Clean to the point you don’t want to paint it. :-p Might be a bit difficult to tow around, although I bet the power of the gun itself makes it well worth it.
I wouldn’t simply go with ones own natural bias, and start to claim it to be superior. It is known that Joel machines the Supah on a metal lathe, capable of .001” tolerances. While Gort does such on a wood lathe. Quite simply these machines aren’t designed of producing strict tolerances. Heck, I’ve never heard of a wood project requiring anything near .01”. In the diameter were talking lathing a O-ring to just 1% squeeze is going to result in a ~.00125” difference. A wood lathe quite simply cant touch that. Remember a lathe uses a series of acme rods to jog the tool post, with the tooling tightly secured, along the bed. So all the operations are mechanical, with the user input of spinning one of several crank/hand wheels to rotate the acme rod, converting this into a linear motion. A wood lathe simply has a flat rest linear to the work piece secured to the bed. The user simply uses a tool, similar in size to that of a screwdriver, with a sharpened end and while resting along this rest, the user feeds such into the work piece. I mean I don’t think a well trained sniper could even pull off tolerances achieved by a metal lathe on a wood lathe.
I’m not drawing any conclusions, just stating that one cannot simply start to support one as there is many to factors to compare. I could only see physical data turning up such support.
This is not my first gun, but it is the first one i am willing to take the time to post on Spudfiles :o . It has a 2 serviceable piston valve and a 1...