How big would I need for a 2" porting piston

Cannons powered by pneumatic pressure (compressed gas) using a valve or other release.
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MisterSteve124
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How big of a tee would I need to make a 2" porting piston?
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Velocity
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at least 2.5 (mauler valve), prolly 3" would be easier (supah)
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MisterSteve124
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ok does a 2" cap fit good in a 2.5" tee for a piston?
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I think if you sand it down to fit.
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c19o
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how do u put a sprinker valve onto the 2" cap when u stick it into the 2.5" T? isnt the cap too thin? my local hardware store only has pressure fittings and pipe up to 2" :evil: :x :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :( :( :( :( :( :( :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
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MisterSteve124
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So does every other hardware store like everywhere! And nobody is talking about sprinkler valves besides you.
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killagorrila99
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Try a 1.5 cap. That should do.
"I'm sorry, Mr.Bush cant come to the phone right now, He's playing cleudo with Mr. Cheney And he has him in the Cupboard with a broom stick" -White house receptionist.
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c19o
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the sprinkler valve is to fire the cannon dumas*. :wink:
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CS
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Well I once constructed a 2" ported valve within a 2" tee. The stroke was only ~.5", and the fact that there was was no way to remove the valve once glued in place.

As Rmich stated, it'd be best to in case within a 2.5", or 3" tee. A 2.5" is more then roomy enough to in case everything, although out of availability some may be forced to use a 3" Tee.

In the 2.5" T valves Ive constructed I used a section of 2.5" pipe for the piston chute. A un-modded section of 2.5" will accept a 2" pipe, but with more play then a O-ring can take care of. So I then tried to solvent weld a 2" coupler on a section of 2" pipe, then lathe it down to use that last bit of coupler to make up that difference. The fitting layer is simply to thin, and flakes off during machining. So now use a 3" boring bar to increase the ID of the 2.5" pipe while using a lathed down coupler solvent welded to a 2" pipe as the piston.

The boring of the 2.5" is a rather good procedure as both sch 40, and 80 above 2" tend to have a uneven interior. So using a boring bar with a slow auto feed on the carriage it produces a really nice surface finish. From what I hear Gort uses 2.5" sch 80 to accept 2" sch 40 as the piston. Ive never tried myself, but I would assume one would still have a bit of trouble with the uneven interior of the piston chute.

c19o, please act a bit more mature. There is no need to post 31 emoticons in a row. [Yes, I counted]
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c19o
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dude i am just showing how sad i am having to drive 50 miles to get my supplies. and you are not the person to be telling me what to do.
but thanks for the first part of your post.
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CS
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"and you are not the person to be telling me what to do." ~c19o

Im in the Modfia... :wink:
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sgort87
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C19o, he IS the person to tell you what to do, and there ISN'T a reason to use 31 emoticons in a row, or even 4 for that matter.

Pimp, you are close on what I use for the piston, but not quite right. And o-rings fix that unevenness with no problems.
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c19o
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dude if he told me what to do on the streets he would be dead in the middle of the road.:wink: and using those emotes doesn't hurt any1? name me a reason why not to. you shouldn't be telling me anything like that either. it isn't like pimp is
my momma or sumthin.
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CS
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Hmmm, the pipe I had was fairly wavy on the interior, although I never tested as to see if such effected the O-ring seal. I bet we were talking ~+/-.005. That obviously throwing any idea you had to your squeeze % out the door. Possibly the interior of the pipe you have is different, or the O-rings do in fact compensate for the ~.01 deviation. Possibly a fairly high viscosity O-ring lube, and low density O-rings would help with such.

A 1.5" fitting instead of a 2" pipe?
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c19o
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my T is is sch40 and is perfectly smooth on the insides.
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