Well, im looking into a new cannon and it seems as if making my own darts is tedious and annoying. i am willing to pay the extra money for factory-made darts.
but, my god there are SO MANY KINDS OF DARTS!!!!!
from what i can see, the wire darts (target darts, broadheads) are too weak for spud gun usage and will get bent and ruined after one shot.
the darts i am looking at for penetration are the "STINGER" spike darts
http://www.blow-gun.com/storefront/merc ... y_Code=SRD
i am also looking into getting a junkoad of stun darts, seeing as they have a more limited penetration and i would be able to retreive them.
my only worry is the stun darts beeing horribly innacurate. if anyone has a .40 blowgun and has noticed a difference in accuracy between stun darts and other darts please let me know.
also, what can i use as a target that will stop the darts INTACT so i dont have to keep buying more......
.40 cal Blowgun darts
Ive not really ever used these darts but for a backstop i might suggest ballistics gel. If you have good aim, because i usually make it small and the bigger you want it the harder and harder it gets to make.(need big big fridge) and alot of waiting time.
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PVC Arsenal 17
- Staff Sergeant 3

- Posts: 1762
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:18 pm
- Location: United States
Over the summer I built a gun for .40 darts.
You are right about the wire darts. Shoot them once and might as well forget about them. Still fun though.
All the darts are pretty accurate. The only problem are these tiny little 'burrs' on the plastic cones from being molded. They cause drag in flight and tend to make the dart veer off in one direction. Not terrible though.
Go ahead with your gun, it will be loads of fun. I'm actually building a second one next week. Make sure you work out some sort of breech load system into your design... otherwise loading darts won't be fun at all.
You are right about the wire darts. Shoot them once and might as well forget about them. Still fun though.
All the darts are pretty accurate. The only problem are these tiny little 'burrs' on the plastic cones from being molded. They cause drag in flight and tend to make the dart veer off in one direction. Not terrible though.
Go ahead with your gun, it will be loads of fun. I'm actually building a second one next week. Make sure you work out some sort of breech load system into your design... otherwise loading darts won't be fun at all.
- VH_man
- Staff Sergeant 4

- Posts: 1827
- Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
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bah i was trying to keep this project secretive but i failed because of this question. your fish killer was actually the basis for this project, exept im planning on using pressures above 100 PSI............ and adding a stock/scope/bipod/crazy athstetics
im wondering if stun darts are going to be accurate at all............... i was looking for this gun to be uber-accurate (hence the scope)
as for the burs, i will personally go through and sand off all the burs. i cant have inconsistent ammo!!!! NO!!!
I actually just found these "metal tipped super stun darts" wich LOOK like they are far better moulded than the normal stun darts. almost as if the metal tipped stun darts will give me the uber accuracy i want.
im wondering if stun darts are going to be accurate at all............... i was looking for this gun to be uber-accurate (hence the scope)
as for the burs, i will personally go through and sand off all the burs. i cant have inconsistent ammo!!!! NO!!!
I actually just found these "metal tipped super stun darts" wich LOOK like they are far better moulded than the normal stun darts. almost as if the metal tipped stun darts will give me the uber accuracy i want.
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PVC Arsenal 17
- Staff Sergeant 3

- Posts: 1762
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:18 pm
- Location: United States
*I'm flattered*
Give me a minute... I'll draw up a diagram of my new Fish Killer plan. Ever heard of a Klein Bottle?
Edit: Ok here is a horrible diagram of my new gun which I'm going to build as soon as the parts get here....
Basically it consists of a coaxial chamber. Outside pipe is 1.5", inside pipe is 1/2" sch80. There are reducing bushings at either end connecting the two. It's completely closed off except for a reducing tee which is part of the 1.5" chamber. From that tee is a 3/4 line which connects to a 3/4" QEV. The outlet of the QEV borrows the same quick-connect breech as my FK1. So the blowgun barrel slides through the 1/2" inner pipe to meet the QEV.
Hard to explain... but basically what I'm doing is eliminating the over/under and having the barrel slide right through the chamber.
Edit 2: Apparently I wasn't the first one to think of this... http://www.armoredfistpaintball.com/bergles_cannon.htm
Give me a minute... I'll draw up a diagram of my new Fish Killer plan. Ever heard of a Klein Bottle?
Edit: Ok here is a horrible diagram of my new gun which I'm going to build as soon as the parts get here....
Basically it consists of a coaxial chamber. Outside pipe is 1.5", inside pipe is 1/2" sch80. There are reducing bushings at either end connecting the two. It's completely closed off except for a reducing tee which is part of the 1.5" chamber. From that tee is a 3/4 line which connects to a 3/4" QEV. The outlet of the QEV borrows the same quick-connect breech as my FK1. So the blowgun barrel slides through the 1/2" inner pipe to meet the QEV.
Hard to explain... but basically what I'm doing is eliminating the over/under and having the barrel slide right through the chamber.
Edit 2: Apparently I wasn't the first one to think of this... http://www.armoredfistpaintball.com/bergles_cannon.htm
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- VH_man
- Staff Sergeant 4

- Posts: 1827
- Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:00 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
- Been thanked: 1 time
thats a great idea. im using full metal for mine though. i think its against fourm rules to say what im planning. lets just say i was bet that i couldnt make something as powerful and accurate as a .22...... i want to own that bet in the face, and with style.........
and as for the barrel inside chamber thig, i was thinking aboug this quite a bit once, exept it was a coax with a cross in the middle of it........
and as for that link, ive been looking for that. its the breech loaded coaxial!!!!!!!!!!!! its how Sgort made his shoulder fired coax......
and as for the barrel inside chamber thig, i was thinking aboug this quite a bit once, exept it was a coax with a cross in the middle of it........
and as for that link, ive been looking for that. its the breech loaded coaxial!!!!!!!!!!!! its how Sgort made his shoulder fired coax......
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PVC Arsenal 17
- Staff Sergeant 3

- Posts: 1762
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:18 pm
- Location: United States
Metal is always nice. Of course I have to live up to my name. lol
Good luck with your gun though.
Good luck with your gun though.
- Zen///
- Specialist 2

- Posts: 278
- Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:49 pm
- Location: In a foxhole sniping,Calgary, Canada
- Contact:
I use a 2350 page phonebook as my backstop,the beast wrote:Ive not really ever used these darts but for a backstop i might suggest ballistics gel. If you have good aim, because i usually make it small and the bigger you want it the harder and harder it gets to make.(need big big fridge) and alot of waiting time.
my ball valve gun with nail darts penetrates about 400-800 pages.
And i made this solid plate of glue, paper and cd's and some other secret stuff and the nail darts only penetrate .5cm
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