BQ prusa i3 3D printer

[wyz2285]

Got myself a BQ prusa i3 hephestos. Came as a kit with all the parts made also by a 3D printer. I have properly assembled it and it does turned on and moves. However I haven't be able to print anything nor connect it to my PC nor calibrate it.
First I need to figure out which program it uses (says Marlin on the BQ page but their download file are just codes and no executable programs), then calibrate it (this thing is off on every axis).
Help please

[jrrdw]

http://www.3dprintforums.com/forum.php

You'll probably get more results asking @ the 3d printer forums. Looks to me like you got a "fly-by-night" knock off version of a home made printer and no cabinet to speak of.

[DYI]

I think there may be some confusion here - I just had a look at the Marlin project. You seem to be expecting a Windows program, but that's not what Marlin is - Marlin is printer firmware.

Anyway, the project has a wiki here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin
You'll need to download it, configure it appropriately (good guide on that here), and then compile it an upload it to the printer board (the Marlin wiki has some information on this).

The reason I say there must be some confusion here is that I found out all of the above from about 5 minutes of searching and reading - I've never heard of Marlin before. So what exactly is the problem?

[wyz2285]

I too thought I need to load it to the printer (the Marlin is just codes, similar to these Arduinos codes I used to use). But I haven't figured how am I going to load it? I connected the printer to my PC but nothing show up (unlike an arduino). Speaking of which my Arduino only worked on win7 so that might be why I'm not detecting it...
Basically I'm looking for something like repetier host that works with it and get it calibrated.

[DYI]

Looks like this is using an Arduino board... You're sure that the Arduino IDE you're using has the capability to talk to the 2560 board, right? Also, by the sounds of the material on the BQ site, the printer board might already have the firmware configured and installed, as it says the firmware is "Marlin derived". This would make sense, considering that it's a complete product.

I don't have any specific knowledge of this printer, unfortunately. There are a few people on here who might - mobile chernobyl would be a good one to talk to.

[wyz2285]

I used the "auto home" option in the printer menu but the step motors are traveling way more than supposed and isn't stopping at the contacting switches so if there were code already loaded into it it's probably messed.
Haven't tried Arduino IDE or anything, just tried the repetier host under Jakethebeast's suggestion.
Thanks for the help.

[mobile chernobyl]

Yes it sounds like your printer firmware (Marlin possibly) is not configured to your printer's dimensions.

I don't have access to my home computer right now - but if you are using Marlin, it (the printer's physical dimensions) will be programmed directly into the firmware - which you will want to double check (using Arduino IDE or any other editor i.e. notepad++ or VIM) to make sure it does not exceed. Also you'll need to make sure that settings such as pull down or pull up are configured correctly for the physical end stop switches. It may not be reading them if not.

I haven't been in the loop for about 5 months now with 3D printing. May be a bit more before I can get back into it too unless I can get my company to start using them haha. It's a fun hobby - There's 3 basic programs you'll use when 3D printing. The CAD program to design. The Slicer program to create layered 2D prints (soon this will change...) and the printer controller program - usually firmware on a micro controller that interprets the slicer program's output. I used solidworks->Sic3r->Marlin

Solidworks is preferential, there are other programs like tinkerCAD, 123D (autodesk), google's sketchup and for the programmatically inclined, OpenSCAD, which relies heavily on command line style input - but reaps many benifits in terms of automation and repeatability for those that are comfortable coding.

Slic3r looks stable now, 5 months ago it was going through seriously bug fixing, but eventually came out on top again with a very well designed 3D printed support algorithm that allowed lightweight, low density break-away support for overhangs exceeding 1:1.

Marlin, well it's just a well known firmware for Cartesian printers like the Prusia! It works well for many XYZ printer design, those in the Delta world were working on other firmwares (and opting for the 32bit micro controllers for better/faster position calculation because Delta's need to do more math just to calculate where it is in the XYZ realm).

Good luck! make cool sh!t!

[wyz2285]

Thanks! The firmware is a Marlin derived, I'll check the code.
One noob question (sorry if it sounds too stupid): which code do I load to the board? There are so many codes in the firmware provided by BQ (called marlin hephestos). Anybody could take a look at it? It's just a bunch of c++ files in the folder I think. Link here: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Marlin_Hephestos.zip
I'm ok at 3D modeling (inventor) and just picked up sli3er yesterday but I can already make a model into G-code.
Edit:
Found an Arduino file in the folder, turn out to be Marlin. Uploading to the printer.
Still looking for a way to manually control it so I can calibrate it.

[jakethebeast]

Slic3r looks stable now, 5 months ago it was going through seriously bug fixing, but eventually came out on top again with a very well designed 3D printed support algorithm that allowed lightweight, low density break-away support for overhangs exceeding 1:1.

And I was wondering why my support were so f*cked up...

[wyz2285]

Got it working, even though I can't upload files to it directly from my PC but I can print from SD card already.
Where can I find the primer glue to put on the bed? What's the name of it?

[mobile chernobyl]

Are you printing with ABS or PLA?

If ABS (Which I greatly prefer, but it does emit slight fumes) - Just take scraps of ABS and mix it with acetone - this will dissolve into a slightly thicker liquid. You can then paint this onto your glass bed (use a cotton swab or paper towel) and when the acetone evaporates - you are left with a 10's of microns thick layer of ABS that will allow a very good adhesion for the first layer (The only one that really needs help!). This is typically referred to as "ABS Juice"

Hair spray also works well - be sure to get non-fragrant type and get the strongest "hold" rating you can. The downside to hair spray is that it gets all over everything (from the over spray) and is harder to clean off, and attracts dust - but it does work slightly better then the ABS "juice" mentioned above - in my opinion.

If using PLA - Try blue masking tape, 2" wide version helps you use less strips and have less gaps/bumps between strips. Some 3D printing supply websites even sell pre-cut 6"x6" or 8"x8" squares of masking tape - it's that popular!

There are alternatives to this, such as using an optimal compound polymer for your printing surface (which is what Stratasys does) but your going to spend more $$, and if you're just doing low-volume/prototype work, you probably don't need it.

[wyz2285]

Yeah I'm using PLA, masking tape it is then. Hope it's easy to take off from the glass bed.

[mobile chernobyl]

If your bed isn't heated (which, if it was intended to primarily print PLA it usually isn't) it will be really easy! Just be sure not to leave it on for like half a year - the adhesive in masking tape is really only rated for like a month max (for easy removal) after that it starts to dry out and leave deposits of old adhesive on your surface.

[wyz2285]

First print A butt piece for the carbon fiber stock I'm making for one of my M4s.
Didn't had mask tape at hand so had to use a drop of super glue when it was gonna came out, very bad idea.

More to come

[CS]

Ohhhh yeah! Nice print. Looking forward to more pics.

My da vinci 3d printer is coming in the mail today, so hopefully I will be adding pictures as well pretty soon.