My barrelsealing valve leaks in an odd place. Got any ideas?
My barrel-sealing valve leaks in the spot shown in the picture. Ive tried sealing it with pvc cement, JB, and epoxy the leak still eventually comes back. Maybe its a flaw in my gluing? Im thinking of making a whole new valve, but before I do I'd like to see what you guys got to say.
Did you secure your female adapter with skrews? I would just remake the valve.
searching for a modern day savior from another place,inclined toward charity,everyone's begging for an answer,without regard to validity,the searching never ends,it goes on and on for eternity
-Bad religion
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have you tryed super glue?
you make just want to redue it because sometimes leaks mean it isnt a good solvent weld.
you make just want to redue it because sometimes leaks mean it isnt a good solvent weld.
"physics, gravity, and law enforcement are the only things that prevent me from operating at my full potential" - not sure, but i like the quote
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
You can try to find a really strong spring, put it behind the piston to keep it sealed, make yourself a vacuum pump, put some sealant over the leak, and put a vacuum inside the chamber.
Or you could remake it.
Or you could remake it.
Couldnt you just remove the piston and cap the barrel? Good idea with the vacume though.noname wrote:You can try to find a really strong spring, put it behind the piston to keep it sealed.
Or you could remake it.
searching for a modern day savior from another place,inclined toward charity,everyone's begging for an answer,without regard to validity,the searching never ends,it goes on and on for eternity
-Bad religion
-Bad religion
Ho Mopherman
From where will he apply the glue, then?
Nice valve. I had the same problem with my first one - but that was different because my valve seat is not solvent welded / glued into the tee, but just rests on the female adapter with some silicone in between. It worked fine, until I got a barrel pushed in too far... but then, I could just pull the piston and seat out the pilot end, and redo the seal.
I tried to solvent weld the seat on just like you in my first try, but that became a disaster: I had just assumed that the tee was perfectly straight, and that the tee should have 90.0000 degrees between front and sides.
EDIT:
Not so. AND the solvent glue also tends to make things expand, pushing my valve seat down towards the chamber. I ended up with the piston hitting the seat at the bottom with still a 1 or 1.5 mm gap at the top.
If you have to redo, you can consider a seat that just rests on the adapter in the front. Just make sure that the barrel doesn't push it backwards.
My idea for a repair: Apply the glue from inside the valve. Maybe something like: Remove piston and anything fancy on the valve seat that it seals against. Fit a plug (wood and silicone, whatever) into the seat fitting. Rub some o-ring grease or hand soap on everything inside the valve that you don't want to be ruined by glue.
Locate the entrance end of your "leakage tunnel"; it must be at the end of the valve seat. Put a strip of slow glue (standard epoxy, not rapid) there (or apply plenty of it evenly all around the seat fitting) Put pilot cap on, pressurize a tiny bit, until you have it leak again. See from where glue was "consumed" and put some more there. Pressurize again, but now release air before it starts to leak again.
Wipe away the epoxy mess in the valve with rubbing alcohol. Cross fingers.
I wouldn't worry too much about a bad solvent weld on the seat, as long as the one of the adapter is good.
Regards
Soren[/quote]
From where will he apply the glue, then?
Nice valve. I had the same problem with my first one - but that was different because my valve seat is not solvent welded / glued into the tee, but just rests on the female adapter with some silicone in between. It worked fine, until I got a barrel pushed in too far... but then, I could just pull the piston and seat out the pilot end, and redo the seal.
I tried to solvent weld the seat on just like you in my first try, but that became a disaster: I had just assumed that the tee was perfectly straight, and that the tee should have 90.0000 degrees between front and sides.
EDIT:
I did mean the seat fitting, not the tee.and that the tee should have 90.0000 degrees between front and sides
Not so. AND the solvent glue also tends to make things expand, pushing my valve seat down towards the chamber. I ended up with the piston hitting the seat at the bottom with still a 1 or 1.5 mm gap at the top.
If you have to redo, you can consider a seat that just rests on the adapter in the front. Just make sure that the barrel doesn't push it backwards.
My idea for a repair: Apply the glue from inside the valve. Maybe something like: Remove piston and anything fancy on the valve seat that it seals against. Fit a plug (wood and silicone, whatever) into the seat fitting. Rub some o-ring grease or hand soap on everything inside the valve that you don't want to be ruined by glue.
Locate the entrance end of your "leakage tunnel"; it must be at the end of the valve seat. Put a strip of slow glue (standard epoxy, not rapid) there (or apply plenty of it evenly all around the seat fitting) Put pilot cap on, pressurize a tiny bit, until you have it leak again. See from where glue was "consumed" and put some more there. Pressurize again, but now release air before it starts to leak again.
Wipe away the epoxy mess in the valve with rubbing alcohol. Cross fingers.
I wouldn't worry too much about a bad solvent weld on the seat, as long as the one of the adapter is good.
Regards
Soren[/quote]
That would be kinda hard because that valve is the kind with a female adapter on the back and a reducer screwed into that. hmmm, I'll have a friend suck on the pilot ball valve and apply epoxy on the leak. At 100psi it loses at most 5psi a second.
Oh, and if you feel sorry for your friend sucking (and possibly inhaling the fumes of your cement), consider a vacuum cleaner!
"Nothing sucks like an Electrolux", went the slogan of the Swedish appliance company as they tried their luck on the US market some decades back. Despite the attention they got, it wasn´t a great success....
(It´s a TRUE story .. in Swedish, there are no special connotations to that word; on their domestic market it was a perfectly good one. I remember seeing it in Danish, too. But they should have asked someone before that English translation...)
Regards
Soren
"Nothing sucks like an Electrolux", went the slogan of the Swedish appliance company as they tried their luck on the US market some decades back. Despite the attention they got, it wasn´t a great success....
(It´s a TRUE story .. in Swedish, there are no special connotations to that word; on their domestic market it was a perfectly good one. I remember seeing it in Danish, too. But they should have asked someone before that English translation...)
Regards
Soren
Last edited by dongfang on Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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