Paintball Launcher

[sniperx117]

i dont mind the pump the pump thing. ill only use this thing for big games.

BTW, what the -blam!- is a spud bux???????????????

[joannaardway]

BTW, what the -blam!- is a spud bux???????????????

Ah, that has been answered many dozens of times... for the most recent explanation (mine by chance), read this topic and scroll to the 4th post down:
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic,p,113666.html

[sniperx117]

i dont mind pumping it. i would only fire it if i wasnt under immeidiate threat so slow reloading is no big deal for me.

[Orpackrat]

You could make it like this:

PVC barrel, metal ball valve, galvanized steel expansion chamber (same size as ball valve), and 12 gram Co2 quick change adaptor (pipe adaptor if needed to go from the 1/2" Co2 adaptor to expansion chamber).

It would use one 12 gram Co2 per shot, the launcher will be shorter, the barrel can be 1' long and still have good performance, you could use a 2" barrel and fire nerf footballs as rockets, and there is no need to bring a pump to charge it after you shoot (just change the Co2 and your ready).

why not put a spliter in from your main pb tank you can easily make one using that braided steel hose stuff

The problem with that is the far majority of paintballers use a small Co2 tank 20oz or smaller. Also the launcher would always be connected to the gun. If a single valve setup is used, when you fire, you have to immediately close the valve to avoid empting your tank. It is easy to snag the valve on something and drain your tank. At the high pressure of just running it off your paintball tank everything but the barrel will need to be metal (galvanized steel works). To avoid having to quickly close the valve after firing and be much more efficient when firing you would need a duel valve setup, one to charge a chamber and one to fire the launcher. This makes the launcher longer and heavier. It also makes it a bit more expensive and there is still the problem of it being connected you your gun or pack (if your running a remote) and the valves can be snagged and empty your Co2 tank.

What I would suggest if you want to make one that operates on a refillable Co2 tank, is make one that is separate from you gun Co2 tank. You would need a paintball tank adaptor like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Red-Tank-Adaptor-Bo ... dZViewItem

It has two openings and comes with a plug (so you can use one opening if thats all you need (unless its a fancy setup you only need one outlet)). The threads on it are 1/8" and is a basic pipe threads, (at the high pressure it will be at, the launcher must be all metal except the barrel).

Since it sounds like you will be using it to shoot just paintballs the expansion chamber does not have to be big, I would recommend using a firing metal ball valve no smaller than half the barrels size (example: 1" barrel use no smaller than 1/2" metal ball valve, if you use a 2" barrel (2" barrels can fire paintball grenades or nerf footballs) or larger, a 1" metal ball valve is fine).

Expansion chamber size: I would recommend the dia of the pipe to be the same as your firing valve and for the length, firing paintballs, 4" would be a decent size, firing paintball grenades or nerf footballs, 6"-8" is a decent size.

When it comes to the barrel length, with the high pressure of Co2 a barrel longer than 18" is not needed about a 12" barrel is just fine (I use an 18" barrel when I fire long nerf finned footballs so they have about 12" of barrel to accelerate before leaving). Most launchers are muzzle loaded and need some kind of push rod to shove the projectile in.

The barrel assembly usually consists of: barrel, PVC coupler (example: 1" barrel, 1" PVC pipe coupler), and a threaded PVC to pipe adaptor (thread size for the firing metal ball valve). I have built a simple setup to quickly load projectiles without a push rod and securely lock the barrel for firing. You might have to shave the inside of one side of the PVC coupler to be a bit larger and about 1"-1.5" on the barrel to make it smaller.

Basically once the couple and barrel end has been shaved down to where they can be connected together and removed easily with about an 1" of the barrel in the coupler, the locking mechanism can be built. You will need a small diameter carriage bolt about 3/4" and a locking nut. Drill a hole near the end of the barrel in the shaved area, the hole needs to be the size of the bolt (example: 1/4" bolt, 1/4" hole). Insert the carriage bolt into the hole so the rounded head is inside the barrel, then put on the locking nut on the bolt and tighten till the rounded head of the bolt is flush on the inside of the barrel and the square locking area (between the rounded head and the threads) has dug into the barrel. Now all that is needed is to make an "L" shaped cut in the coupler wide enough for the locking nut to travel between. When done the barrel should slide into the coupler (locking nut sliding between the path) and once in the coupler, the barrel twisted so the locking nut turns and slides within the cutout of the "L" (nut makes a 90 degree turn). With this setup, a twist and pull will remove the barrel for easy rear loading, the carriage bolt head helps keep projectiles from rolling back.

Basic assembly of the launcher and parts:

As said before, the entire launcher except the barrel assembly has to be metal (Copper pipe/fittings, PVC, ABS, plastics, etc DO NOT USE) Galvanized pipe from a hardware store works well.


The general assembly for an efficiant Co2 launcher (operates on refillable paintball tanks) is this:

Barrel assembly, firing metal ball valve (recommended size listed ^), Expansion chamber (recommended size listed ^), expansion chamber filling metal firing valve (size can be the same as the expansion chamber or smaller, smaller you will need an adaptor to enlarge the threads to fit the expansion chamber), a series of adaptors (depending on size of chamber filling metal ball valve, 1 or more will be needed) to reduce the pipe size to 1/8", once at 1/8" inch, the paintball tank adaptor is connected (paintball tank will be vertical unless an 1/8" 90 degree section is used on the paintball tank adaptor). Be sure to tighten all fittings, especially with the paintball tank adaptor (the paintball tank that is used on the launcher has some weight and could turn from the leverage).


The general assembly for a Co2 launcher (operates on 12 gram disposable Co2 cylinders) is this:

Barrel assembly, firing metal ball valve, expansion chamber, pipe adaptor (depending on size of expansion chamber it may or may not be needed), and 12 gram quick change adaptor.


To fire:

1. Close all valve/s
2. remove empty Co2 source
3. Screw on Co2 source
4. Load
5. Aim
6. Fire
7. Repeat (if using refillable Co2 tank skip steps 2 and 3 unless tank is empty)

[sniperx117]

^^obviously this guy missed when I decided to switch to pump not 12 grams

[Orpackrat]

There was some posting while I was typing it.

[sniperx117]

because im tring to keep weight down.

Ok, i think I got it,



I would just put a schevair valve in the back and use a tire pump instead of a 12 gram.

Is that any better?

I think that this is my best design. Now would it work? and work well?

Please give feedback about this design. I can make it today if so!

[Orpackrat]

I would make a larger pressure chamber for a better ratio. If your are making the chamber out of PVC, don't use threaded PVC fittings, they are unsafe.

If I were building a launcher like this, I would have at least a 1.5 chamber to 1 barrel ratio.

It would work but the main concern would be opening the valve, open it as fask as possible.

[sniperx117]

I am making the chamber galvinicied pipe.

and teh valve thing would be hard to do, but i tried one once. it was a pretty smooth andd fast opening and closing.

[DYI]

For normal pressures, you don't need a C:B ratio any higher than .25:1. For higher pressures, you can make the barrel even bigger.

[sniperx117]

so whats this ratio you keep rantng about again?

But seriously, what is the ratio your talking about have anything to do with this?

[sniperx117]

So I should go ahead with the plans?

If so, ill need a materials list.

Ill make one:

1. 2' x 3'' PVC pipe For Barrel
2. 3'' threaded adapter( one side threaded, the other not)
3. 2'' Metal Ball valve
4. 4'' Galvinized pipe
5. End cap for pipe
6. Schrader Valve
7.Tire Pump

Is this correct?

[Orpackrat]

So I should go ahead with the plans?

If so, ill need a materials list.

Ill make one:

1. 2' x 3'' PVC pipe For Barrel
2. 3'' threaded adapter (one side threaded, the other not)
3. 2'' Metal Ball valve
4. 4'' Galvinized pipe
5. End cap for pipe
6. Schrader Valve
7.Tire Pump

Is this correct?

2.5 1" long 2" dia pipe for connecting PVC to valve.
4. Is that 2" in dia and 4" long?
5.5 Drill bit for hole in end cap for schrader valve.

[sniperx117]

1. 2' x 3'' PVC pipe For Barrel
2. 3''-2"threaded adapter (one side threaded, the other not)
3. 2'' Metal Ball valve
4. 3" Galvinized pipe
5. End cap for pipe
6. Schrader Valve
7.Tire Pump
8. Drill Bit


Everything okay?

[Hubb]

I am assuming that you are going to have a 1" diameter chamber. If that is the case, it might be more convenient (and cheaper) to go with a 1" metal valve instead of a 2" valve. Also, in a lot of hardware stores, you can go to the section that sells the compressors and get a 1/8" npt schrader valve. This is very convenient because then you could skip the "drill through the cap, insert the valve" step (besides, galv caps are a b!tch to drill through correctly). You could replace the cap with a coupling and bushing, then thread the schrader into the bushing.