
















If that's all it took to get you to build a metal gun, I should've posted this a long time ago!Gun Freak wrote:Nice find! One thing holding me back on a metal piston valve has always been the seat. (and the cost) Another monster, soon to come, courtesy of LnL.





I tried that, but it's too wide for the piston to seal on in my experience. Of course someone could make the sealing face wider. My rule of thumb is that you piston seat should be able to fit through your piston housing. I've never had trouble with sealing faces getting cut, this seat has held 400psi in my piston hybrid, and that was just the force holding it closedTechnician1002 wrote:For a better wider seat, instead of using a nipple, use a pipe cutter and cut the threaded end off a piece of pipe. That will give a wide seat that is less likely to cut the piston seal at high pressure. Once the pipe is cut, sand it smooth and flat on sandpaper on a flat surface. By carefull cutting of the pipe, you can adjust the extension into the T to the optimum length of about 1/3 the way in for best flow.
If the piston seat (OD) cannot fit through the piston housing, it is larger than the piston, and therefore the piston is not exposed to any pressure on the sealing side. Your rule of thumb, as I understand it at least, allows the absolute maximum seat diameter that could possibly work in an ideal situation.Lockednloaded wrote:I tried that, but it's too wide for the piston to seal on in my experience. Of course someone could make the sealing face wider. My rule of thumb is that you piston seat should be able to fit through your piston housing. I've never had trouble with sealing faces getting cut, this seat has held 400psi in my piston hybrid, and that was just the force holding it closedTechnician1002 wrote:For a better wider seat, instead of using a nipple, use a pipe cutter and cut the threaded end off a piece of pipe. That will give a wide seat that is less likely to cut the piston seal at high pressure. Once the pipe is cut, sand it smooth and flat on sandpaper on a flat surface. By carefull cutting of the pipe, you can adjust the extension into the T to the optimum length of about 1/3 the way in for best flow.
POLAND_SPUD wrote:even if there was no link I'd know it's a bot because of female name

As far as I know bunnings don't have them fittings(worked there for two years and might as well move in how much I go there lol).jazzman56 wrote:This solves my problem, the bunnings i have doesn't sell any brass hose barbs so now i can build a valve with this sealing face. Thanks



Probably not, I believe GHT threads only come in 3/4".clemsonguy1125 wrote:Nice find, I wonder if they have one, 1/2 to 1/4





thats funnyGun Freak wrote:I'm done asking people who work at home depot, I know the plumbing department better than their employees.
A worker there was telling a lady about how you can't use PVC with CPVC because "the inside diameters won't match up"![]()
Valve looks nice. I want to make one
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