This is my new pneumatic sniper one of my new non ghetto guns.
specs:
Chamber: about a foot of 2 inch pvc
main valve: 1" sprinkler valve (modded)
barrels: 2' feet of 1/2 inch and 3/4 of and inch pvc
pilot valve: modified blow gun
fill valve: 1/4 female quick connect
ammo: slingshot ammo, marbles, screw darts, and co2 cartridges.
I have a question yesterday when I finished this gun I was shooting the back cap blew of and hit me in the thigh at at only 100 psi I think the cap blew off because the day before I spray painted the gun then realized the chamber was too long so I cut it then got a new end cap and glued without taking off the previous spray paint do you think this is why the cap blew off I then fixed the gun today and re painted it and it works but im not trusting it till i get some answers.
some better pics. and a video should be up tomorrow i need to find my camera cord
camo sniper
- inonickname
- First Sergeant 4

- Posts: 2606
- Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:27 am
Even though the picture quality isn't great, the gun looks brilliant! Looks nicely done everywhere, except for perhaps it looks like there's a QD threaded through a single layer of PVC.
Doesn't itfeel good to put time towards making cleaner guns?
Doesn't itfeel good to put time towards making cleaner guns?
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
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thedeathofall
- Specialist 2

- Posts: 213
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 10:43 pm
hhmm.. not bad actually. you could use less pilot, but whatever floats your boat. The paint job is pretty nice as well, it gets brownie points.
When giving a camo paint job, most people use only 2 or three colors; bright green, shiny black, and/or tree bark brown. This really bothers me. I like how you used military OD green and splotched flat black and a grey brown into it. It looks really nice and very realistic because it could actually be hidden in the right environment.
While the gun is rather nice, you might want to reconsider you picture taking. I personally dislike human figures in a photo of a weapon. It takes away from the gun, and makes the user seem more childlike. (not implying anything here) Just set the thing on the ground or you can get artsy and prop it with cool cloths and stuff.
When giving a camo paint job, most people use only 2 or three colors; bright green, shiny black, and/or tree bark brown. This really bothers me. I like how you used military OD green and splotched flat black and a grey brown into it. It looks really nice and very realistic because it could actually be hidden in the right environment.
While the gun is rather nice, you might want to reconsider you picture taking. I personally dislike human figures in a photo of a weapon. It takes away from the gun, and makes the user seem more childlike. (not implying anything here) Just set the thing on the ground or you can get artsy and prop it with cool cloths and stuff.
"I'm spending time without a gender for tax reasons. It's great if I get hit in the groin, but a total nightmare in the bathroom."
-Rag
Obsequium parit amicos; veritas parit odium.
-Cicero
-Rag
Obsequium parit amicos; veritas parit odium.
-Cicero
- mark.f
- Sergeant Major 4


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Nice gun!
I like the fact that the combination of 45's allows the user to sight down the barrel without the chamber lip and valve getting in the way.
Once you sort your endcap-blowing-off problem, the 2" could be used as a stock, and a sight could be mounted over the valve.
As to the endcap, if you solvent welded over paint, you will not get a good joint. The paint blocks the action of the primer and cement, and will leave you with two parts and a small layer of grimy PVC in-between. Sand down to pure PVC, and then clean extensively with a solvent first, and soap last. Then, you will be ready to solvent weld over the area. You will probably have to re-paint where you sanded too much off, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
I like the fact that the combination of 45's allows the user to sight down the barrel without the chamber lip and valve getting in the way.
Once you sort your endcap-blowing-off problem, the 2" could be used as a stock, and a sight could be mounted over the valve.
As to the endcap, if you solvent welded over paint, you will not get a good joint. The paint blocks the action of the primer and cement, and will leave you with two parts and a small layer of grimy PVC in-between. Sand down to pure PVC, and then clean extensively with a solvent first, and soap last. Then, you will be ready to solvent weld over the area. You will probably have to re-paint where you sanded too much off, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
Very nice looking design! Great job with the 45's and the trigger placement.
And like mark.f said on the endcap, the reason it blew off was due to the paint. I have had a 4inch endcap blow off at 80psi and go 50 feet for the same reason. So be careful! Best idea would be to redo the endcap as mark suggested, but then your chamber would be shorter.
On second thought, you should just redo the whole chamber, and get a 2inch to 1inch, 1inch to 1/2inch, 1/2inch to 1/4inch reducer and just screw the quick connect right into that.
The 1/2 to 1/4inch is not a pvc part, but you can find that in the metal fittings.
And like mark.f said on the endcap, the reason it blew off was due to the paint. I have had a 4inch endcap blow off at 80psi and go 50 feet for the same reason. So be careful! Best idea would be to redo the endcap as mark suggested, but then your chamber would be shorter.
On second thought, you should just redo the whole chamber, and get a 2inch to 1inch, 1inch to 1/2inch, 1/2inch to 1/4inch reducer and just screw the quick connect right into that.
The 1/2 to 1/4inch is not a pvc part, but you can find that in the metal fittings.
Ok thanks guys I have already redone the chamber so I don't think I have to worry about the cap with brand new fitting not painted then i painted it so its all looking the same vids. and some more pics should be up soon if i can get them on.
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