
auto-recock no tool hammer valve?
I had an idea that came froma story about accidentaly actuation a piston with a ramrod. why not just have a washer/bolt pistonplugging the end of a high volume high pressure chamber and whack it open? You would put the outlet to the barrel behind the piston so the air pressure would recock it. heres a pic


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Seems logical. But you dont know for sure until you try it 
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
thats what i plan to do. as soon as i scrape some cash together.I also plan on equiping it with a jsr style blow-forward breach for a nice ROF.
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And im pretty sure this could probably easily be used as a semi auto?
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
@LMC 3/8 slingshot ammo. Gets me all exited just thinking about it
woops, thought you asked for my ammo choice.
I was planning on semi auto
woops, thought you asked for my ammo choice.
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- Hailfire753
- Specialist 3

- Posts: 348
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:50 pm
- Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Sweet idea! There has been a whole lot of semi-auto ideas recently, but no one has tested them yet. Do you think your design would cycle fast enough for paintball use (6-10 bps)?
Please Test! ...or I will test it if I have the time and money.
Please Test! ...or I will test it if I have the time and money.
Last edited by Hailfire753 on Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
UPDATED MARCH '08
field-legal paintball semi
field-legal paintball semi
yes, I think it would cycle for semi or even full auto. I do plan on testing this. The only problem I forsee is the spring not e being strong enough to open the valve at higher pressures. This is why I'm limiting the sealing washer to 1/2 in diameter.Hailfire753 wrote:Sweet idea! There has been a whole lot of semi-auto ideas recently, but no one has tested them yet. Do you think your design would cycle fast enough for paintball use (6-10 bps)?
Please Test! ...or I will test it it Ihave the time and money.
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The striker will shut the air off to the barrel the way you have it and the air will also blast out the hole for the sear. You need a longer pin on the valve and the sear needs to be further up the slide tube(ahead of the barrel outlet).
This isn't a new idea though. It's a standard valve type. You need very high pressure to make this worthwhile.
This isn't a new idea though. It's a standard valve type. You need very high pressure to make this worthwhile.
Thanks for the tips. wouldnt not need so much pressure because I used 1/2 diameter outlet? I think thats much bigger than most pbguns.Hawkeye wrote:The striker will shut the air off to the barrel the way you have it and the air will also blast out the hole for the sear. You need a longer pin on the valve and the sear needs to be further up the slide tube(ahead of the barrel outlet).
This isn't a new idea though. It's a standard valve type. You need very high pressure to make this worthwhile.
I understand that this isnt a new valve. I just wanted a multi-shot valve that required no lathe. Btw,I plan on making it so the striker blocks off the sear hole. Thanks for the input
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Check out the piston/hammer valve combo topic.
That is another similar idea where the piston functions as the hammer and theoretically resets immediately. Jack did a pretty good drawing for the principle.
For your idea you could notch the striker in the middle rather than having it caught on the end.
A potential striker that requires little machining (polishing)is a drill bit extension. I have bought a short one that slides in half inch copper piping. It could be set up so that it could be cocked manually initially.
That is another similar idea where the piston functions as the hammer and theoretically resets immediately. Jack did a pretty good drawing for the principle.
For your idea you could notch the striker in the middle rather than having it caught on the end.
A potential striker that requires little machining (polishing)is a drill bit extension. I have bought a short one that slides in half inch copper piping. It could be set up so that it could be cocked manually initially.
Are you saying that i should extend the sear further inward into the pipe,or that i should make a channel in the piston for it?Hawkeye wrote:Check out the piston/hammer valve combo topic.
That is another similar idea where the piston functions as the hammer and theoretically resets immediately. Jack did a pretty good drawing for the principle.
For your idea you could notch the striker in the middle rather than having it caught on the end.
A potential striker that requires little machining (polishing)is a drill bit extension. I have bought a short one that slides in half inch copper piping. It could be set up so that it could be cocked manually initially.
I was planning on making a striker out of a brass craft tube that fit nicely in the pipe. I would fill it with jbweld or similar.
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I would recommend that you wait for me to skrew up on it.then you can get first hand advise
well, we'll find out whenever i get some funds
well, we'll find out whenever i get some funds
Last edited by mopherman on Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- VH_man
- Staff Sergeant 4

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actually, the only way i dont think this would work is if the piston sealed to tightly.......... the presure would build up and the spring wouldnt make the hammer move fast enough............
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